The fourth of July
The fourth of July, also known as Independence Day, is America’s birthday. It was on this day in 1776 that Congress adopted the Declaration of Independence which formalised the colonies’ divorce from Great Britain. And America, already the most patriotic country we’ve ever been to, puffs out it’s chest, puts up all it’s red, white and blue flags, buys out all the hot dogs and celebrates this day like no other nation. And we were right in the middle of it.
Our fourth of July started in the modest rural town of Meeker, Colorado which services a large farming and ranching region in the north-western part of the state. On most days we would probably just drag Main in towns like Meeker but we instinctively knew today would be special here, and we were right.
We had already missed the community breakfast of pancakes and corn bread but we arrived in time to catch the celebration parade, featuring local community groups, high school cheerleaders, souped-up cars, political representatives, horse-drawn wagons, children riding on flatbeds filled with hay bales and a whole lot more great stuff. The folksy and personal public address announcer added to the fun. Small town America at it’s best.
We said goodbye to Meeker and followed the country road through more gorgeous farm and ranch land, green rolling hills serviced by generous rivers, before arriving at the town of Rifle where we indulged in showers (it was the fourth of July after all!) and lunch before turning westward.
Julie and I usually avoid America’s Interstate highway system like the plague as they are usually soulless strips of bitumen and concrete scarring the beauty of this nation. But we’ve found one exception to this rule and that is Interstate 70, or the I70. This section of the highway stretching from Denver to Grand Junction, parts of which we had done the previous week, deserve special mention as passing through some of the American west’s most beautiful countryside, largely thanks to the huge Colorado River which has carved it’s deep path of the millennia.
By the time we hit Grand Junction, the state’s main regional centre in the western half of the state, we were buzzed from the magnificent carved desert mountain views and pumped for more fourth of July celebrations.
Which is a good thing because nothing is more Americana than a baseball game with beer and hot dogs. And that’s how we ended up at a Pioneer Baseball League game of young professional players between the local Grand Junction Jackalopes and the Idaho Falls Chukars.
While the quality of the game might not have been up to major league status the atmosphere in the stadium was absolutely fantastic. Of course we stayed until the fireworks went off after the game, lighting up the sky to the oohs and aahs of the families sitting all around us. The fourth of July had been perfect for us.
And for the record, a jackalope is a cross between a jack rabbit and an antelope. A chukar is a colourful bird found regularly in these parts. If you don’t believe me, look it up.
We spent the night in the campground of nearby Colorado National Monument, a park that preserves and promotes some of the most extraordinary carved desert landscapes in the southwest. When ocean floors were lifted and then carved by water, wind and time the result is spectacular red sandstone cliff lines, canyons and tall towers. It is a place of extraordinary natural beauty, some of the best we’ve seen.
And so the next day turned out to be our red rock day of the trip, as if no trip can be complete without one. From our campsite in the park we drove the winding scenic road, stopping at every opportunity to ogle at these spectacular scenes.
As timing would have it, Independence Monument, which stands out as a tall tower in the middle of a deep canyon, has the American flag raised there by climbers every year on the fourth of July. So of course we could see it fluttering in the breeze from numerous vantage points.
We soon crossed the border into Utah, very sad to leave the beautiful state of Colorado. We had spent 17 days crisscrossing it’s mountains, exploring it’s national parks, visiting it’s historic mining towns and wowing at it’s magnificent ski resorts. We followed the Colorado River, we went to a rodeo, caught up with our niece and some Sydney friends and enjoyed a rip-snortin’ fourth of July. Colorado, you’re special and we’ll be back.
How will Utah respond to the challenge laid down by Colorado? Well, initially, with flat, dry lifeless desert but as we turned towards the self-proclaimed and well-earned outdoor adventure capital of America – the heaps cool town of Moab – we entered one of the jewels of the American park system – Arches National Park.
And did we say red rock? Holy cow, these red rock mountains, lifted up and then eroded over the millennia by water, wind, time and changes in temperature have left behind some of the most amazing rock formations you’ll see in the world – including, no kidding, up to 2,000 natural rock arches.
Having bought a timed entry permit we entered the park in the mid afternoon and started the wonderful scenic drive which links the highlights of the park. The formations of these rocks at times defy belief, be it their beautiful striped colours, their tall phallic towers, their vertical smooth rock walls or their precariously balanced rocks, they are all a wonder to the eyes.
But the unquestionable star of the show is the arches, big and small, long and thin or short and thick, hiding behind corners or out in plain sight, an extraordinary natural phenomenon. And amazingly, they are still being formed, slowly over time while perhaps existing ones are collapsing. But it all happens so slowly, where millions of years is just a snapshot in time, you can only shake your head in wonder.
Unbelievably we jagged a coveted spot in their campground after a last-minute cancellation and with the temperature in the high 30’sC/high 90’sF this gave us a chance to recharge our small batteries and attack this wonderland again the next day. And as a super bonus we were camped amongst these beautiful smooth sandstone creations which brightly reflected the rays of sunset and sunrise.
We had one big mission in the park and were perfectly positioned to tackle it. Starting before the sun rose too high, we followed a two mile (three kilometre) trail which led through beautiful sandstone rocks with the highlight being the largest arch in the park – Landscape Arch. Stretching 306 feet (92 metres), this massive arch left us shaking our heads – how could it be?
We saw a number of other arches on this walk and made it back to Tramp before the melting hour. We ended up in the outdoor adventure capital of Moab to buy supplies and then headed south to destinations unknown.
Our fourth of July celebrations had been fantastic and beautiful Arches National Park was a fabulous introduction to Utah. We couldn’t wait to see what else was on offer.
Hi Bill and Julie,
Arches NP was the site of our first honeymoon camping spot back in October, 1996. We later camped in Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce and finished with Zion. Great memories of a fantastic world outside of Virginia.
all the best,
Eric and Deborah
Oh wow, glad we triggered some great memories. Utah is such a spectacular place to visit – everyone should make the pilgrimage at least once.