American states each have a tagline, usually displayed proudly on their license plates.  For instance, there’s boring ones like the Peach State (Georgia) or Empire State (New York), some are more descriptive like Big Sky Country (Montana), historic like Land of Lincoln (Illinois) or braggers like Grand Canyon State (Arizona).  But New Mexico creates a special aspirational category all to themselves – this low profile state call themselves the Land of Enchantment.  And we were there to be enchanted.

But the southern stretches of the Land of Enchantment in June, especially during a heat wave, take serious commitment to be appreciated.  We entered the state from southern Arizona and continued to cross the lifeless Sonoran Desert’s across vast flat stretches of blistering hot nothingness.  Tramp’s thermometer stayed above 40°C (104°F) all day and his AC was on full tilt the whole time. 

Eventually we made it to the major town of Las Cruces after buying the cheapest fuel we’d seen in the US for a couple years (US$2.87 per gallon or A$1.22 per litre) and had an overdue shower at a huge truck stop.  From Las Cruces we climbed up the stunning Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument and found a fraction of shade and a smidgen of breeze to camp for the night in the shadows of these dramatic mountains. 

We woke to be greeted by a grey cloud cover and lower temperatures, making the morning feel like Christmas.   Our mission was to hit the mountains where there was alleged to be trees and cooler weather but to do that we wanted to follow the famed Rio Grande as it poured out of the aforementioned mountains on it’s way to eventually forming the border between the US and Mexico.

The valley formed by this handsome river featured rich agricultural land and we passed through endless miles of pecan orchards, onion, alfalfa and other crops.  We passed through the small town of Hatch (the chili capital of America!) before having lunch on the river.  We then headed towards the mountains and the large Gila National Forest, through the historic mining towns of Hillsboro and Kingston, crossing over Emery Pass, a steep winding road that provided fab views from all turns and peaked out at 9,000 feet (2,740 metres).

The town of Hatch provided some colourful and yummy moments.

This land is filled with history of the Apache who lived off this land for many centuries before western settlers moved in, causing endless conflicts which only ended badly for everyone.  When silver and copper were found in the mountains in the late 19^th century it became part of America’s industrial future.

We camped that night under cooler conditions, surrounded by pines and oaks, not a desert scene in sight.  We’re loving the mountains like we’d never been here before.

Running through the Gila National Forest is the ever-flowing Gila River and hidden in one of it’s many deep canyons is Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument.  Our mission for the day was to traverse the steep winding roads that cut a path through this nature wonderland and visit these wonders of the ancient world.

We began our walk up one of the tributaries of the Gila River and then hit some switchbacks to reach the remains of these dwellings which were built by the Mogollon people in the late 13^th century.  These people, which were the predecessors of the modern day Native Americans that we know, moved into this canyon and built their homes in the caves high on the cliff walls. 

Scientists believe these caves were home to 25 to 40 people, probably in a few extended families, but for reasons unknown only stayed for about 25 years or so before moving on.  But what they left behind, still standing in most of it’s original form, is an astonishing legacy to their existence.   We felt honoured to be walking amongst these ruins and marveled at how they survived under these circumstances.

Buzzing from this wonderful experience we headed downstream a short ways and had a relaxing soak in the Gila hot springs, soaking in it’s 100°F (38°C) natural hot water, occasionally jumping into the cold river to alternate between hot and cold.  A great experience all around.

We camped that night deep in the forest, surrounded by high and mighty Ponderosa pines, loving the beautiful smells of the forest, playing cards in front of the fire, living the dream.

As it happens, Kathy and I have our youngest brother Bruce living in northern Arizona and a quick look at the maps told us we could get there in a day and spend the night at his beautiful mountain home.  But of course there were many stops along the way, including a great visit to the historical site in the little town of Mimbres where ancient Puebloan people lived before the cliff dwellings were built in the mountains above.  Very cool.

The drive up Highway 180 skirted around the massive Gila National Forest and passed through some of the most beautiful country we’d seen on this trip. We passed into Arizona and the road climbed to 9,300 feet (2,830 metres), winding it’s way through forest, mountains, beautiful green meadows and across numerous little summer streams.  We saw elk grazing near the road, passed ski resorts and saw many locals enjoying these beautiful mountain scenery.

Eventually we made it to the mountain community of Pinetop/Lakeside and found our way to Bruce’s home nestled high on a hill amongst the Ponderosa pines and Gambel oak trees.  Bruce has carved out a wonderful life amongst his large family, friends and animals (at this time horses, goats, chickens and dogs) and the five of us had a great night catching up on family and life.

The next day we reluctantly left Bruce’s place and retraced our steps a short way back into New Mexico.  This state delivers big time if you are into high desert vistas, long open plains and distant jagged mountains.  We made our way to El Malpais National Monument situated in the middle of the state and camped in the bush at the end of a long dirt track amongst the pines and junipers.  So far every turn, every scene, every moment in New Mexico so far has lived up to it’s name as the Land of Enchantment.