At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the Australian Alps on the Victoria side are absolutely stunning.  We wanted to maximise our time in this inter-connected string of national parks and state forests that cover all of north-eastern Victoria while still leaving time to take in some sunshine on their wonderful beaches.  Our target for the day was remote Errinundra National Park which has basically no paved roads in it and only a few light tracks to cover it’s unique landscape.  And that’s perfect for us.

After a false start down an obscure mountain trail that proved too ambitious for us we headed up the Bonang Road from Orbost, a beautiful winding road that weaved its way ever northward through thick forests.  We then followed a dirt track into the heart of Errinundra National Park and found a magical world of cool temperate rainforests, huge graceful ferns and massive ancient trees. 

And again we felt we had this whole park to ourselves, so expansive and yet so intimate.  The Errinundra rainforest walk took us even deeper into this wonderland as we walked amongst the giant ferns and under the beautiful shining gums, a rare species which reaches up to 250 years old.  Sadly, we brought some leeches out of the rainforest with us.

As rain threatened – of course, we’re in a rainforest – we drove down to the Ada River where we camped in a beautiful setting amongst all the tall timber.  The rain came and went before we enjoyed a fab night around the fire under 40 metre tall trees swaying in the breeze. 

After refueling in the little cross-roads town of Cann River we headed back into the bush, this time to explore remote Coopracambra National Park which hugged the NSW border and only had one drivable track through it.  This track hadn’t been upgraded since the fires and was largely overgrown and in poor condition but our highlight was lunch on top of Mealing Hill which had been cleared as an emergency helipad and provided stunning 360° views of this rugged part of the state. 

Our time in the mountains, as good as they were, was coming to a close and we headed down to the coastline for a few days of sand and sun.  We camped for the night not on the beach but at Tamboon Inlet, a quiet lake connected to the sea which is popular with fishermen.  Expansive Croajingolong National Park was all around us and protects a long stretch of Victorian coastline all the way to the NSW border. 

The day had been the hottest on the trip so far but there was no sign of a breeze all afternoon.  Storm clouds rolled in from the coast and the early morning was filled with thunder, lightening and pelting rain.  Never mind, blue skies weren’t far away and weather is part of travel. We headed back out to the highway and went eastward to the coastal holiday retreat of Mallacoota. 

Mallacoota gained it’s 15 minutes of international fame during the massive bushfire that swept through these parts in December 2019 when their only road in and out of the community was cut off and thousands were evacuated off the beach by boat, including with the assistance of the Australian Navy.  More than 60 homes were lost in this small community of only 1,200 people but today they appear from the outside as having bounced back very well.  The caravan park was busy, little tinnies were motoring this way and that with hopeful fishermen and the pie shop was almost out of pies.  Mallacoota, good on ya.

We followed the coast westward, stopping at a few beaches along the way, doing a couple of short bushwalks, taking in the beautiful scenery.  Eventually we made our way back into the Croajingolong National Park and camped amongst the thick burnt regrowth at Shipwreck Creek and enjoyed a late afternoon walk along its pristine beach and crashing surf. 

But we were on a new mission to meet up with friends up the coast for the upcoming weekend so we headed north, saying goodbye to a wonderful visit to north-eastern Victoria, somewhat reluctantly crossing back into New South Wales. We stopped at Eden, the southern-most regional centre of the state, and the historic headquarters for the whaling industry over 100 years ago. 

We know Eden fairly well, having been here last year, so after supplies and a lunch out on the lookout we motored north again.  Finally we moved into state forests and a string of national parks that had not been gutted by fires three years ago and it was refreshing to see the good ole Aussie bush at full flight. 

We pulled into the holiday town of Pambula Beach and enjoyed a swim at the mouth of the Pambula River before settling for the night further north in Mimosa Rocks National Park at the Aragunnu Campground.  Amongst a handful of hearty campers that had the rigs to get down the steep narrow track we found two other Trayon campers.  We had seen one other Trayon earlier in the trip but to see two identical campers amongst only five other setups in an obscure camping spot is absolutely crazy.

We enjoyed a delightful night around the fire talking to Ross and Andrea from Melbourne, proud owners of one of our identical campers.  Their travel stories and life experiences centred on the great outdoors and the freedom provided by those who enjoy camping and are up for adventure, all of which significantly overlapped our own interests.  Great minds think alike, including the type of camper.  And topping off the night, we were visited by numerous cute little bandicoots lopping about our camp, shy but curious, squeaking and cuddly from a distance.

After a long fun chat the next morning to Pete and Leslie, the owners of the other Trayon in camp,  we walked through the coastal bush and unique old bangalay gums to the Aragunnu Beach and then drove northward to Bermagui and partook in a rite of passage for all travellers who pass by. 

The Blue Pool is a large natural pool in the rocks at the base of a dramatic cliff line that was first opened in the 1930’s but has since been fixed up and had steps installed so that dozens, if not hundreds, of people a day can come for a swim in its frigid waters.  Of course we had to do it even if the sun was hidden and the wind was blowing.  Freezing cold but invigorating is one mild way to put it. 

We also stopped at the historic little town of Tilba, a favourite on this route.

We ended the day at Congo Beach in Eurobodella National Park, a campground we had enjoyed before and wanted to check out again.  The campground was more crowded with caravanners than we had remembered but the setting was absolutely sublime and we settled in for a couple of days of chill-out with long sandy beaches and lazy days.

We were camped right on the banks of the Congo Creek which meanders into the ocean within our view but ebbs and flows with the tide and can be a little tricky to wade across at high tide.  We split our mornings and afternoons between the steeper beach and rougher surf south of the creek and the gentler beach and much calmer surf to the north. The sun was just hot enough, the pace of life down to a bare crawl, the appropriate amounts of sunscreen and beer our most important decisions.  It was just like being on holiday!