In terms of wild game viewing in Africa the ultimate prize for any keen traveller is to see the Big 5.  I don’t know the criteria for the selection of the Big 5 or who decided which animals made this elite club but all you need to do is check any T shirt, game park sign or advertising slogan and you know what the Big 5 are.  They are elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard.  The first three are relatively easy to see, the last two much more difficult.  But if you don’t see the Big 5 while you are in Africa you haven’t been there.  Or so they say.  And so we’re on a mission to see the Big 5.

In the meantime, and a long way from seeing the Big 5, we’ve been marvelling at the diversity, majesty and oddity of African animals.  For instance, did you know that even though hippos live in the water they can not swim?  We learned this and much more on our morning cruise along the St. Lucia Estuary where we saw some of the 1,000 hippos that live in its shallow waters.  But because we’re in Africa we saw many other new and old animals – including some of the Big 5 – in the nearby iSimangaliso Wetlands Park, and also drank in its long beautiful beaches and wonderful scenery.  Another day in paradise!

The iSimangaliso Wetlands Park was the first UNESCO World Heritage location in all of Africa, protecting the largest wetland and estuary system on the continent and the home to countless aquatic, birds and mammal species.  The vast area is now a national park and our drive through and around the preserved area uncovered many fabulous new creatures as well as some of our old favourites.  In particular we found three gigantic white rhinos wallowing in a mud hole, their signature horn cut off to protect them from poachers.  Sad but that’s the reality these animals live in.

We camped up the coast in another section of the park and the next day made our way further north to the border of Swaziland, a small independent country that straddles the South African and Mozambique border.  Swaziland is an absolute monarchy and the long-reigning King Mswati III rules all aspects of life in the kingdom, not always to the best effect.

As we started our drive through the country it was obvious that Swaziland does not have the relative prosperity of rural South Africa, as low as that standard may be.  But as we negotiated some of the worst potholed roads we’d seen for ages we admired the long vast fields of healthy sugar cane, standing tall in the stifling dry heat of their rolling hills.

After passing a few villages that clearly struggle with any modern comforts we entered the Hlane Royal National Park, the country’s premier game park.  Owned by the King and provided to his subjects for their enjoyment, the park provides a place in this small country to see most of the large wild game with only buffalos missing. 

We checked into the campsite and went on an afternoon drive through the park, guided only by a handwritten and photocopied map that fell short of most standards for accuracy and detail.  It was about 35C/95F, far too hot to see much wildlife, but we did catch a dozen white rhinos (which are not white at all) wallowing in the mud and looking warily at Tramp as well as many other more common critters.  Rhinos are an amazing beast, a single long horn, super thick layered skin, short legs and an enormous girth that from behind makes them look like a walking garage.

The temperature didn’t drop much overnight but we could hear the lions roaring in the not-to-distance while we tried to sleep, safely knowing they were on the other side of the campground compound fence.  Or at least we hoped so.

The next morning we were ready to push further north through more endless sugar cane fields and back into South Africa.  We had enjoyed our brief passing through Swaziland but even as a small country it probably deserved more time.  Maybe next time.

Our next goal was Kruger National Park, one of the most famous parks in the world and the best place to see the Big 5.  Bring it on!