We were booked at one of the many resorts along the northern beach of Candolin, a short drive to the main town of Panaji and a short walk to the endlessly long and expansive beaches.  Paradise, Indian style and our base camp for the next five days.     

Goa has all the elements to push all of our holiday buttons.  First, it is rich in history with its Portuguese colonial past, European architecture, Catholic churches, medieval forts, lotsa good stuff.  Second, it’s got magic beaches, especially if you like them very long, very deep, very hot, a little dirty and scattered with ‘shacks’ for you to eat and drink in.  Third, it’s in India which means the food is fantastic, the culture is fascinating and the people are fabulous (if not occasionally frustrating!).     

Shopping the hard way

The Portuguese Se Cathedral with one bell tower still standing

Some of the Hindu temples were spectacular spectacles

We spent our days split between the beach, always hiding from the scorching sun under big faded umbrellas, and exploring the area.  We hired a driver the first day and kept him the whole time we were there (car plus driver for about A$30 per day).      

One day it was the morning on the beach followed by an afternoon excursion to a 300 year old fort that guarded the mouth of the river.  Another day we visited Old Goa, the main centre for the Portuguese with its 17^th century cathedral and churches and excellent little museum.  It felt like we were back in Europe and back in time!  We pushed inland through the rice patties, stopped at colourful Hindu temples, and then up into the hills to a spice plantation for lunch and to learn about (and taste) all the exotic spices grown in this part of the world.      

Another day we explored all the beaches to the north, including the local markets, local restaurants and, well, just watching the locals.  We did the same thing to all the beaches in the south (there’s a lot of beaches!) all the way down to super-duper Palolem Beach which would be our choice spot if we ever decided to come back.      

And we have perfected our own style of beaching.  Hire one of the big umbrellas so you don’t melt in the heat and allow the locals to sell you snacks, drinks, clothes, handicrafts and the kitchen sink without ever leaving your lounge.  And if you don’t mind the constant ‘where you from? What your name? Buy from me, very cheap, special price….’ patter then this is your spot.     

Julie trapped in a market stall by a ferocious critter

Do you really think this is my colour?

We were there just at the end of their high season so the hotels, beaches and restaurants were clearing out.  These days Goa still attracts the bread and butter European visitors plus a few Aussies and such.  But the big new crowd in Goa is the Russians.  This is the new rich Russians and they’re invaded big time, much like what you see in Phuket, Macau or countless other places around Asia.  Some signs and menus are in Russian and there’s no point trying to eavesdrop on the table next to you.  They’re speaking Russian.   And I can’t do justice to what they look like on the beach but let me carefully choose three words – humongous, bleached, bikinis.     

When in Goa spices are king

Selling fruit and vegetables is hard work

Oh yeah, the food.  The traditional food of Goa is in its own category with that unique Christian, Muslin, Hindu influence and of course it’s all about spices and seafood.  But what we really enjoyed was having lunch in one of the many ‘shacks’ that lined the beaches.  These shacks were just seasonal bamboo structures with a basic kitchen in the back (don’t look) and tables under the thatched shade overlooking the surf.      

The food was basic but absolutely delicious every day, without fail.  The scene across the beach, feet in the sand and repetitive cold beers probably helped also.  After one of these meals, none of which would cost more than a couple of bucks, I wanted to just sit there for an hour or two until I felt hungry again and then order another meal.  Oh yeah.      

Everyone is looking for shade in this relentless heat

Where are the Police when you need them?

And then there were all the markets.  The open markets in the villages we visited were great fun, great to photograph (Bill) and great to buy things (Julie).  One of the covered markets reminded me of a Moroccan souk while at the Anjuna flea market Julie tried to clean them out of jewelry (she failed).  All great fun.      

So bottom line, it is good to go to Goa.  If we are ever in the neighbourhood again we would definitely have a repeat performance.     

How about a quiet Sunday afternoon at the local beach?

The local fishing fleet with their bright colours and Christian names