The big morning had finally arrived. We woke to grey skies and wet tents but everyone was pumped with excitement and anticipation. After a little extra time to allow the new teams to pack their vehicles for the first time we were off on the 2016 Simpson Desert Expedition. Each car had chosen their handle for our radio communications – there was Cruiser, Disco, the Angels, Corral, JALT and the Crambos – … Continue reading →
It is a major technical and logistical challenge to drive a vehicle across the Simpson Desert given its remote location and 1,100 parallel sand dunes. But first you have to get there and for four of us that means driving from Sydney to Adelaide where we will meet the other 13 members of our group who will fly in and pick up their hired vehicles. But of course we weren’t … Continue reading →
A mad idea started to form about two years ago when Julie and I were looking for our next big adventure, something which definitely had to involve exploring more of Australia. We had fond memories of when we led a group of family members driving to the tip of Cape York and we wanted to combine an outback adventure with a big family event. After a nano-second of consideration we knew what … Continue reading →
We’ve covered a lot of ground over the last few months without actually going too far (if you don’t count our quick trip to California for beautiful Bryn’s wedding!). There’s been baseball (of course), and bushwalking (of course) and camping (yes, of course). But the family also has a bigger drone that takes absolutely fabulous photos and videos, there was a romantic weekend thrown in there and we all had … Continue reading →
Julie and I love weddings. They combine three fantastic elements which make them unmissable for us – celebration, reunion and travel. So when we heard one of our beautiful nieces in the US had chosen the date and place for her nuptials we locked it in before the invitation arrived. And the double added bonus to the whole event was that the lucky couple had chosen the family ranch in California as their … Continue reading →
Easter bunny season is one of the best times of the year if you are around little kids. Not only is it fun to watch young children celebrate Easter with the mythology of the Easter bunny and the whole chocolate eggs thing, but even big kids and adults can get momentarily wrapped up in the fun. And that’s what we all did at our annual family gathering, camping at the … Continue reading →
The shiny green moss was wet and slippery from the overnight rain. I couldn’t find a suitable place to put my left foot that would hold my weight and every time I tried to reposition myself I hit my head on the rock I was trying to crawl under and around. It was dark and cramped and somewhat concerning. I eventually pulled myself up on two little handholds until I … Continue reading →
The sun was beating down on us, my legs were starting to cramp and I knew my water supply was getting low. We were crossing a very steep slope with huge fallen trees, thick scrub and loose rocks. The light was fading, we were off track, completely dependent on our GPS and fairly exhausted as we tried to find a way off this steep escarpment. It might have been a precarious … Continue reading →
The Christmas and New Year holiday period is very important for most families as a time of reunion and celebration. It’s also a good time to slow down a bit, reflect on the year past, raise a glass or two and spend some quality time with loved ones. But it can also be a bit chaotic with gifts, parties, special meals, visitors and just coordinating all the different activities that … Continue reading →
Some things are just hard to give up. Once you get the taste for them, once you find out how good they are or how fun they are you just have to do it again. This is how we feel about Thailand, our home for over four years, now an irresistible magnet which was drawing us back. So since we were in the neighbourhood after visiting Sri Lanka we had to … Continue reading →
On 26 December 2004 a 9.0 earthquake occurred off the coast of Sumatra in Indonesia. The tsunami that was created by this massive shift of tectonic plates on the ocean floor struck the coastlines of 14 different countries with devastating force, most fiercely felt in the Indonesia provinces of Aceh and North Sumatra. But as the 25 metre waves rolled westward the first obstacle they met was Sri Lanka and the impact on the … Continue reading →
The Sri Lankan leopard is one of eight sub-species of leopards in the world and with less than 500 still in existence it is also one of the rarest. Yes, we had seen leopards in East Africa but that was there and then, this is now. So one of our missions in coming to Sri Lanka was to see a leopard. And the best place to do that is in … Continue reading →
There is as much to see in Sri Lanka that is off the main roads as on them. We learned this in the central highlands of the island when we temporarily abandoned Mr. T and our comfy air-conditioned car for other forms of transport. It all started at 5am with a call to prayer from the local mosque – we were soon up and ready to begin our walk to the World’s End.
Continue reading →The mountains of Sri Lanka are world famous for one thing – tea. During the British colonial days the Brits often headed up into the mountains to escape the heat and they found the fertile soil perfect for growing tea. Tea was initially planted to satisfy their personal needs but a bigger opportunity was recognised and soon British industrial knowledge was applied to the task. This started an industry that … Continue reading →
Polonnaruwa was the capital of Sri Lanka around the 11th and 13th centuries and today is set amongst rich farm land used primarily to produce the country’s staple crop, rice. The remains of the ancient city tell a fascinating story of its glorious past and we loved exploring the many impressive remains from the original buildings of that era. Who would have ever guessed this sleeping giant of culture and history … Continue reading →
When it comes to the names of Sri Lanka’s ancient cities they’ve come up with some serious tongue twisters. Much like our driver’s name was shortened to Mr. T, the city names of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa – as spectacular as they were – inevitably became known as the A town and the P town. We kept trying but we never got there and eventually gave up. Never mind, call them … Continue reading →
Ayubowan, this beautiful sounding word was the first we heard when arriving in Sri Lanka on a late night flight from Bangkok. Ayubowan, so say the Sinhalese as a general greeting of good health, a warm hello, peace be with you. With this magic word we could start and finish almost every conversation during 15 fabulous days exploring Sri Lanka. And Sri Lanka deserves exploration for it holds many magical experiences, … Continue reading →
We stood on the edge of the escarpment, staring in wonder at the beautiful Grose Valley that stretched out far below us. The high vertical cliff walls that dramatically marked the valley’s northern and southern boundaries acted as barriers to even this intrepid group of bushwalkers. But our mission for the day was to explore the area around Mt. Hay, a modest rounded mountain of 944 metres that marked the high … Continue reading →
The three of us stood on a high narrow ridge that spectacularly divided two deep valleys. On our left we looked down into the vast Capertee Valley, stretching as far as the eye could see, bounded by dramatic cliff walls with majestic Pantoneys Crown acting as an island in a sea of green gum forest. On our right lay the Wolgan Valley, our second home, with the Wolgan River flowing peacefully … Continue reading →
The colourful early stages of Australian history are filled with the folklore of bushrangers – men who lived beyond the law, surviving on their wits and excellent bush skills while robbing people, stealing cattle and occasionally killing those who would try to stop them. These were desperate times for many people who were trying to survive in a harsh land. But today’s Australians have taken very kindly to these unique characters … Continue reading →
There is something special, really magic, about going to new places, enjoying new experiences, learning new things. Mix these emotions with a dose of adventure when the GPS is your only guide, add in a group of new friends who are kindred spirits and top if off with a light rain that ensures you are slightly soggy. The final product is a great day of fun, exploration and camaraderie. Such were the ingredients … Continue reading →
“Whoever sitteth on this carpet and willeth in thought to be taken up and set down upon other site will, in the twinkling of an eye, be borne thither, be that place nearhand or distant many a day’s journey and difficult to reach.” So says the story in the Arabian Nights about the mythical Flying Carpet, a great solution to all travel and transport challenges. Recently I was given the opportunity … Continue reading →
Winters in Sydney are fairly mild by world standards and generally speaking we’re spoiled by the weather. Having said that, this time of year there is less sun, sometimes a chilling breeze and no use for the world famous beaches. But winter is our favourite time to leave the big smoke and head to the smoky fire around our campsite where we can enjoy the magnificent scenery and breathe some fresh air.
Continue reading →Fiji is famous for its lay-back life style, friendly people and a very casual approach to the concept of time. Things happen at their own pace and there is no need to rush. Its a state of mind that all visitors have to get into but once you are there, Fiji time is fabulous. We had experienced this relaxed life style out on Plantation Island, now we were headed to Fiji’s … Continue reading →
Within minutes of landing at Nadi International Airport we were already fluent in Fijian. That is to say, we had already repetitively heard, repeated and smiled at what seems to be the only two words in that language – Bula and Vinaka. Bula is usually said with a huge genuine smile and multiple explanation marks. Vinaka is said at the end of every conversation, like the full stop of a sentence, with the … Continue reading →
The Gardens of Stone National Park is a seldom-visited track of preserved land covering part of the Great Dividing Range northwest of Sydney which now forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Greater Blue Mountains Area. The park gets its name from the beautiful pagoda rock formations, limestone outcrops and other exposed rock sculptures that are unique to this area. And from our property it is smack-dab in our back … Continue reading →
If I had been standing on this point on a fine April morning in 1770 I might have seen Captain James Cook on the bridge of HMS Endeavour as it dropped anchor in preparation of him ‘discovering’ Australia for King George III. With much less historical significance but possibly with more appreciation for the spectacular scene before us, Julie and I stood on the high cliff marking the end of … Continue reading →
A wedgetail eagle soared gracefully above us, effortlessly catching the light breeze as he looked down upon us. “I wonder if he appreciates the magnificent views he has from up there” I asked no one in particular as I stared upward. “Probably not,” a fellow bush walker answered, “he’s just looking for his next feed”. But from this lofty perch on the top of Pantoneys Crown I couldn’t imagine anything … Continue reading →
Summer is a time for stepping outside, stretching the legs, putting on the sunnies, cranking up the barbie and perhaps working up a bit of a sweat. We’ve been following these rules with an action-packed couple of months, including being part of a memorable baseball game, camping at our property and enjoying a huge family celebration at Easter.
Continue reading →More than 100 years ago some hearty men and women lived in a remote and isolated valley near what is now called the Blue Mountains and eked out an existence mining for shale oil. It was a hard life in the small mining community of Newnes, now just a ghost town deep in the Wolgan Valley, with long days marked by hard work under difficult circumstances and very little reward. … Continue reading →
There we were deep in a building below the level of the sea looking at priceless 4,000 year old Egyptian artifacts, strange modern art pieces and some confronting displays that challenge all your senses. It may sound like an odd combination but it’s easily explained – a long weekend in Hobart with some great friends, the highlight of which was a provoking visit to the Museum of Old and New … Continue reading →
There we were, sitting around a hot crackling fire, surrounded by beautiful rainforest, cold drinks in our hands, tents nearby. As often happens in Barrington Tops National Park, a light drizzle was falling but it made no difference to us as we enjoyed this special family time together doing our favourite thing. As a break over the Christmas holiday season it doesn’t get any better than this.
Continue reading →They call them the Shaky Isles and with good reason. New Zealand endures thousands of earthquakes every year and while most of them are fairly minor they still represent a defining element of life there. These days any visitor to the beautiful city of Christchurch on the South Island can see first hand the destructive capabilities of a major earthquake after they were hit with large back-to-back quakes in September 2010 and February … Continue reading →
The Royal is one of the true treasures of New South Wales. Its close proximity to Sydney, only a 15 minute drive from its southern suburbs, makes it accessible to everyone with a yearning for the great outdoors. And what a special place it is! The Royal National Park, to use its formal name, was established way back in 1879 and is the second oldest national park in the world, … Continue reading →
The Salinas Valley in central California is said to have some of the most fertile and productive land in all of the US. More than a dozen different crops are grown in its rich brown soil but its signature product, and the very backbone of its economy and culture, is lettuce. In fact, so much lettuce is grown here, almost on a year round basis, that the area has been … Continue reading →
There is a saying somewhere about growing boys getting bigger toys but we can submit recent evidence that it applies to girls also. Our beautiful remote property on the western slopes of the Blue Mountains near Sydney is surrounded by rarely visited national parks and a huge world heritage location. For the last 13 years it has been our escape plan from the bustling cities of Sydney or Bangkok. But … Continue reading →
The American northwest state of Washington is known for its beautiful scenery, its pristine waterways, its rainy weather and its coffee. Most of that sounds perfect to us. But Washington is also home to one of our American nephews so when Ross announced his wedding date Julie and I packed our bags. Because we know from experience there’s nothing better than combining a holiday to new places with a … Continue reading →
When wedding bells ring Julie and I are ready to go, or so it seems lately as we’ve attended numerous family and friends’ weddings over the last year. Weddings are a great opportunity for celebration, reunion and flat-out party, that’s for sure. And the bonus is that if the venue is somewhere unique you can turn it into a holiday. So when we received an invitation from some dear friends for … Continue reading →
The Blue Mountains National Park features some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Australia. Given its close proximity to Sydney you would think this magnificent park would be swarming with dedicated tree huggers, weekend romantics, family adventurers and suburban escapists. But on a recent weekend we were determined to get away from the crowds, dive deep into the secrets of the national park and visit one of the … Continue reading →
Australians have a very loose definition for mountains. This is mainly because as the oldest planet on earth Australia’s mountains have all worn down to the point that most countries would just call them large hills. But where Australia’s mountains may lack height they more than make up for in deep gorges, long waterfalls, sweeping views and even glacial lakes. And in two recent successive weekends we explored and conquered … Continue reading →
The Christmas holiday period is a busy time of year for most families in Australia, especially with the warming summer weather, school holidays, traditional family reunions and exchanging of gifts. This year we had all of that plus a milestone birthday celebration, a family wedding and a big week of work at our country property. Those couple of weeks were a fun and rewarding period which we thoroughly enjoyed, barely … Continue reading →
Sometimes, if you’re really lucky, an opportunity comes up to do something you couldn’t otherwise justify. You need a good excuse, a valid reasonable explanation, for doing something that might otherwise be out of reach. And I was exactly this lucky when a former colleague of mine was having a surprise going away party and I was invited to attend. Yes, I had a great excuse to go back to … Continue reading →
Australia has some of the most diverse and unique animals in the world. The continent is probably most well known for its wide range of marsupials but there is also a spectacular choice for reptiles – read snakes and crocodiles – fish and birds. And then there are the introduced species, some of which wore out their welcome long ago. Whatever the case may be, as we travelled around Australia for … Continue reading →
Nobody likes going home after a great holiday. It means the end of a fun carefree lifestyle, seeing new places, trying new food, spending time out of the tiresome routine of life and out of our normal comfort zone. It means back to work, back to school, back to paying bills, back to the boring old same-o same-o. But in our case the whole situation is magnified a hundred fold … Continue reading →
Of all the great Aboriginal words that mark the site of towns, places or things in Australia one of my favourite words was Nullarbor. It just has a fantastic ring to it and is great fun to say. And now we have the exciting opportunity to cross that vast desert plain across the south-central part of Australia referred to simply as The Nullarbor. Unfortunately we also learned that the word Nullarbor … Continue reading →
We stood on the smooth sloping granite outcrop, strong winds trying to knock us down and huge waves crashing on both sides of us. It was a loud, almost violent and yet beautiful scene – the magnificent Southern Ocean crashing into the unmovable Australian continent. It was our first close up view of the Great Australian Bight, one of the most well known and dramatic pieces of water touching Australia.
Continue reading →We had a plan, more or less, to leave Perth after the mighty Cruiser passed its 20,000 kilometre check, and turn east back towards Sydney. That’s nothing less than a drive of about 5,000 kilometres, give or take, with a lot to see along the way. We calculated we had about 14 days to cover this ground and pack in as much as we possibly could. And despite all these … Continue reading →
It’s all very well to be irresponsibly wandering around Australia and posting a few blogs to describe the journey but where in the heck have we been? A friend of mine mentioned in a mail that it all sounded great but he actually had no idea where we were. And to be fair, sometimes neither do we. But after many weeks had passed we finally lashed out on a $6 … Continue reading →
In 1629 the pride of the Dutch East Indies Company fleet, the mighty Batavia, a ship of unprecedented size and scope with the most experienced captain and over 350 people on board, hit the reefs of what is now known as the Abrolhos Islands off the coast of Western Australia. The ship eventually sank, lives were lost but most people made it to the small nearby islands under the most … Continue reading →
What sort of a name is Monkey Mia for a place that is famous for feeding dolphins? And if it’s so well known for dolphins why is the water called Shark Bay? Did a European really set foot here 150 years before Captain Cook? Why is Steep Point so geographically important? And what the heck is stromatolite? Finally, why is the entire peninsula a UNESCO World Heritage listed place? These … Continue reading →
The colourful fish were swimming below us, oblivious to our movement above them or our loud breathing through our snorkels. We love our snorkelling and have done it in many interesting places but we’ve never snorkelled like this – letting the strong current pull you along the shoreline as you pass over healthy coral and a wide array of beautiful fish. This is the Ningaloo Reef, a huge barrier reef … Continue reading →
The first thing most Australians will know about the Pilbara is the mining and in particular the infamous Wittenoom asbestos mining operation of years past. Others might know it for the Hamersley Ranges, the mountain range that runs through the region and over many eons has created almost unlimited iron ore as well as some spectacular mountains. The Pilbara is also known for two towns with interesting names – Tom … Continue reading →
We’ve enjoyed huge servings of wide rivers, flat savannah woodland, huge cliffs, high waterfalls, refreshing plunge pools, beautiful boabs, snapping crocodiles and long dusty red roads on this trip. But one feature of Australia that we’ve missed is beaches. Australia is justifiably famous for its beaches but we’ve only dabbled in them on this trip. Until now, that is. Because our arrival in Derby on the northern coast of Western … Continue reading →
It’s hard to get your mind around the fact that the rugged rocky mountain range in front of you was at one time on the bottom of the ocean floor. Even more so, it made up a huge reef system which ancient underwater creatures called home. And yet here we are, in dusty fly-infested 35 degree desert heat seeing these grandly sculptured mountain cliffs, twisted shapes and crustacean fossils in … Continue reading →
The western end of the Gibb River Road is dominated by the dramatic King Leopold mountain range, the first true mountains we had seen in some time. Part of an ancient sea bed that has risen over the eons, this rocky range is said to be over two billion years old, making them some of the oldest rocks in the world. The main features of this mountain range are high … Continue reading →
Honeymoon Beach is the northern most point you can drive to in Western Australia. We woke from our quiet beach camping spot to a beautiful sunny morning, getting early shade from a huge boab tree that had grown to its monstrous size on the edge of the sandy beach. This was a symbolic turnaround point for our trip, the north-west corner of our journey, and from here it was all … Continue reading →
Every self-respecting Australian four wheel driver, traveller, soft adventurer or dreamer has heard of the Gibb River Road. The Gibb – as it’s fondly referred to – cuts a northerly arc between Kununurra in the east to Derby on the Western Australian coast. It’s rough and dusty track runs for about 700 km and was originally built for the huge road trains that moved cattle and goods from remote stations … Continue reading →
Western Australia is overwhelmingly the largest state in Australia, roughly the same size as the US west of the Rockies, with a proud independent streak in their nature and unique culture. In the last ten years or more WA has been home to the huge resource boom, principally mining and offshore drilling, which has driven the Australian economy and saw it through the global financial crisis with barely a blip. … Continue reading →
We pulled the mighty Cruiser up next to this extraordinary tree and took the mandatory photo. There are some amazing trees in the world with all sorts of unique sizes and features, survival tactics, special characteristics, flowers, nuts, leaves, roots, barks and the list goes on. But when it comes to unique features, I mean really special, different, crazy and a bit weird, nothing beats the boab tree. And we … Continue reading →
We knew from our homework that Litchfield National Park, which lies within a couple hour’s drive of Darwin, was a beautiful and popular park sometimes overshadowed by the more famous Kakadu. And we had also been warned that it is best not to visit Litchfield on a weekend because it is such a popular escape for people from Darwin. But timing and bad fortune had its way with us and … Continue reading →
Julie and I had not been to Darwin for 37 and 20 years respectively. So maybe it’s changed a bit, right? The city was named after Charles Darwin, was a key point in the settlement of the north, bombed 53 times by the Japanese, almost wiped out by Cyclone Tracey and now a prosperous middle-sized town with well-tended parks and its own territory-within-Australia culture. We loved it.
Continue reading →Kakadu deserves its reputation as one of the most unique places in Australia. Its rich biodiversity of flora and fauna, its human history spanning more than 40,000 years, its unique relationship between the weather, plants and animals and its stunning geographic features makes it truly special. We tried to absorb as much as possible but three features really stood out for us – the stunning rock art in three unforgettable … Continue reading →
Many of the places in Kakadu, as in most of northern Australia, have both an Aboriginal name and a western name. This is not uncommon as the two worlds continually adjust their relationship and naming rights become a key issue. For instance, Ayers Rock is now Uluru, Katherine Gorge is now Nitmiluk and the Bungle Bungles are now Purnululu. In Kakadu most places have two names and this causes a moment … Continue reading →
When we started planning for this trip, if you can call it planning at all, there were two areas we wanted to make sure we saw as thoroughly as possible – Kakadu and the Kimberley. Kakadu National Park is a vast area roughly south and east of Darwin in the Northern Territory and west of monstrous Arnhem Land. We finally made it after more than 20 years of talking … Continue reading →
The temperature was getting close to 35 degrees, the only relief being the infrequent bits of shade behind scraggy gums and the outback breeze that blew across the land. We kept pushing on, determined to reach our goal, hoping the heat wouldn’t make us turn back. And then, almost unexpectedly, we came to the lookout, the end of the trail, and below us in both directions was the steep red … Continue reading →
When venturing into the surf or rivers of the Northern Territory you always have to take heed of the many signs warning you of the possibility of crocodiles. Freshwater crocs, which are more prevalent in the rivers, are harmless and shy – they will usually swim away quickly if accidentally confronted. But saltwater crocs, which are also seen in fresh water, are a completely different story. They are aggressive and … Continue reading →
Arnhem Land is a vast part of the Northern Territory, bigger than many countries and at the very heart of the origins of civilisation on this continent. Today it is owned and managed by a range of Aboriginal clans that have occupied this land for tens of thousands of years. But visiting this land is not easy; there are permits to obtain, incredibly long dirt tracks to drive, restrictions on … Continue reading →
The Northern Territory is marked by vast unmarked and uninhabited spaces, long dusty roads and as we learned, beautiful sunsets. But as we slowly moved north, sometimes very slowly, we were on the hunt for lost cities. We knew about them, we had read about them and we were getting closer. But bad roads and beautiful places slowed us down until we finally found what we were looking for.
Continue reading →The vast spaces around the Gulf of Carpentaria are famous for crocodiles, barramundi and…well…vast spaces. We left Cape York and headed toward the Gulf across long dirt tracks, frequent water crossings, endless Aussie scrub and a relentless dust that found its way into every nook and cranny of our truck, our equipment and ourselves. There’s no escaping the dust, that’s for sure, but it comes as part of an overall … Continue reading →
The remote unpopulated areas of Australia are usually divided up into huge stations which generally run cattle or sheep over vast distances. They feature dry scrubby land, unreliable water and a harsh hot climate. These stations represent a core foundation of how Australia prospered in years past and makes up an essential element of Australia today. The people who live in these remote outback locations are honest hard working tough … Continue reading →
Some corners of Australia are almost forgotten due to the immense size and scope of the continent. One area we had spied on an earlier trip which we felt needed more exploration was the uninhabited area north of Cooktown in far north Queensland called Cape Melville. Covered by untracked national parks and Aboriginal land the Cape is often overshadowed by its much bigger brother Cape York. But in one of the … Continue reading →
Our days north through Queensland travelling on a series of the inland country roads reminded us of how huge Australia is. We constantly underestimated the progress we could make on a day of driving, despite our relatively early starts and willingness to do long hours in the mighty Cruiser. Of course we were delayed occasionally by taking photos of the beautiful scenery, stopping in community markets in small country towns … Continue reading →
The big Land Cruiser slowly rolled down the driveway and pulled out onto our street. With that momentous movement it started a journey we had been dreaming about for almost 20 years and had feverishly been preparing for the last four weeks – a three month circumnavigation of Australia. The opportunity had come sooner than we expected and with less run-up for preparation but here we were driving down our … Continue reading →
The bright yellow fish darted in and out of the coral reef below us, completely oblivious to our presence. They were joined by inquisitive little black and white striped fish, the larger colourful coral trout and dozens of other Nemo-like friends. And we had a private viewing of all this colour and movement through our mask and snorkel floating in the calm warm water of this protected bay. Such is … Continue reading →
Bhaktapur is the most amazing city in the world that no one has heard of. It’s old quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage location and it is overflowing with outstanding history, culture, architecture and religion. But when people think of Nepal they think of the capital Kathmandu or more likely the Himalaya mountains and the great trekking. Bhaktapur is only a few kilometres from Kathmandu and probably gets lost in … Continue reading →
The night we spent in the yak hair tent at 5,200 metres was fairly grim. The room was warm thanks to the heavy tent and the yak dung stove in the middle but the combination of sleeping in our full clothes and the exceptionally thin air made for a restless night. Dawn could not come fast enough.
Continue reading →The British called it Everest after a renown surveyor, the Nepalis refer to it as Sagarmatha and the Nepali Sherpas call it Chomolungma but the Tibetans call it Qomolangma. Since only one of those names is pronounceable we decided to stick to the global convention of Mt. Everest. By any name it stands above all other mountains, an imposing 8,848 metres, king of the Himalayas. And we were standing on … Continue reading →
We ducked our heads to fit through yet another very low doorway to see yet another ancient chapel when I miscalculated and banged my head hard on the top of the door. This brought a mix of laughter and sympathy from the gaggle of old women that were watching Julie and I pass by. Their heavily creased dark faces, well worn traditional hats and skirts, swinging prayer wheels and excessive … Continue reading →
The Tibetan plateau, as this vast region of high elevation is called, is much more than just a plateau. Amongst many features it forms the ‘other side’ of the vast Himalaya mountain range that runs through Nepal, parts of India and Bhutan. Today we started our assault on this ‘other side’ with a few dramatic mountain passes, a wide range of weather and some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable.
Continue reading →Tibet is full of surprises to the unsuspecting traveller. For instance, you wouldn’t normally use the words barren and beautiful together, like beautifully barren or even barrenly beautiful. But once you leave Lhasa you enter into another domain of huge rugged mountains which are barren of any life and yet beautiful for the rivers between them, the huge sand dunes on them and people who live among them.
Continue reading →Lhasa has an unmatchable mix of culture, history, politics and religion, mixing them all together in a complex and beautiful package for any intrepid traveller who is prepared to negotiate the maze of visas, permits, costs and distance in order to get there. We spent two more fabulous days exploring every nook and cranny, trying to get the best possible understanding of the place. The whole experience was overwhelming!
Continue reading →What did we really know about Tibet? Forcefully annexed by the Chinese more than 50 years ago, spiritually led by the Dalai Lama in exile, perched high up in the Himalayas, a fairly remote and almost forgotten place in this busy world. But as our Air China plane touched down at Lhasa Airport Julie and I knew that our knowledge base was about to change. One of our most highly … Continue reading →
There is no escaping the blue-brown skyline of Beijing in the early summer. It sits on the city, makes visibility hazy, the cars dirty and the people wary. But the days are pleasantly warm, evenings are delightful and the city offers a range of historical and cultural attractions that can keep any visitor busy for days. And that’s perfect for us as we planned to maximise our extra time before flying … Continue reading →
China. Tibet. Nepal. Planes, trains and automobiles. Seventeen days to travel from Beijing to Kathmandu, negotiating all forms of travel, extremes of elevation and weather, government regulations, visas and travel permits, enjoying strange foods along the way and staying at a wide range of accommodations. Its a bit ambitious, not without risks and a nightmare to organise in advance. We landed in Beijing in the early hours of Day One … Continue reading →
Bhutan is one of the most obscure and unknown countries in the world today and that’s exactly how they like it. Through centuries of history the Bhutanese have leveraged their remote mountain location and lack of strategic or economic value to remain proudly independent. They have excelled at maintaining their isolation from the rest of the bustling world and being as self-reliant as possible, sometimes it seems to their detriment.
Continue reading →Some of Bhutan’s history is not clearly documented due to the remoteness of the country, the lack of historical records and the rather obscure relationship between Bhutanese buddhism and mythology. Nowhere is that more clear than at Taktshang Goemba, or Tiger’s Nest Monastery, perched high on a cliff face in the upper Paro Valley. Its a tough two hour hike straight up the mountain to get there and we raced … Continue reading →
We woke from our floor mattress bedding to the early morning sounds of chickens and cows in our remote farmstay in central Bhutan. It was foggy and drizzly outside, no wonder from this mountain perch of the Himalaya foothills, but we consumed a functional breakfast that looked remarkably like last night’s dinner warmed up and headed back down the white-knuckle switchback track to the valley below. Travelling on normal roads … Continue reading →
Early morning in the Bumthang Valley meant an attempted run at 2,600 metres (big mistake) and an amazing breakfast from local produce. We had buckwheat pancakes with locally made wild strawberry jam and buckwheat honey, eggs from backyard chickens, beautiful cheese made in the local village and a slab of local butter bigger than an iPhone. As on previous days, we started the day with full stomachs and great anticipation.
Continue reading →Waking up in Trongsa was very similar to going to sleep – magnificent views of Trongsa Dzong from the balcony, sweeping panoramas of the deep valley below and no electricity in the hotel. Our visit to the 16th century dzong was absolutely stunning, perched high on the cliff, comprising many courtyards and buildings within its massive stone walls, the former seat of government for kings in the early 20th century … Continue reading →
Bhutan is known for two main features – its magnificent mountains as part of being totally consumed by the Himalayas and its fervent belief in Buddhism. We had the opportunity to combine both of these features in a spectacular morning trek to the Tango Goemba a bit north of the capital of Thimphu and we were rewarded with one of the best experiences in ages. And by donating to the … Continue reading →
The plane quickly descended through steep snow-capped mountains on each side, the ride getting a bit bumpy as we got closer. It then took a few pirouetting turns as it banked left and then right between mountains and followed the winding river course. At the last second it dipped its left wing one more time to line up to the runway and then with a big thump hit the target. … Continue reading →
There we were sitting on our beach lounges under a faded old umbrella enjoying the passing scene and sipping on an Anchor Beer. But the clouds became dark grey, the breeze picked up and within seconds we were forced to retreat to the protection of the bar as the rain came lashing down at almost a horizontal angle. The idyllic beach scene in this budding beach resort town of Sihanoukville … Continue reading →
Songkran is the biggest holiday of the year in Thailand and most well-known for people throwing water on each other, partly as a way to cool off from the blistering heat in what is the hottest time of the year. But as we’ve done the last few years, we use the five day weekend to explore other parts of Asia and this year we zeroed in on Cambodia. Specifically we … Continue reading →
Thailand is obsessed with elephants. They have been revered in Thailand for centuries, kings have ridden them into battle, people keep them as pets, they are the ever-lasting symbol of Thailand. And as it happens, one of our favourite places to visit on long weekends is Koh Chang, or Elephant Island. So when Julie’s youngest sister and her husband were in the neighbourhood we all agreed to spend a few … Continue reading →
Everyone loves weddings. And the closer you are to the lucky couple the more exciting the big event is and the more meaningful is the occasion. For the father of his only daughter it doesn’t get more special then when he walks her down the aisle. And so it was for me, one of the proudest moments of my life when Anna and I slowly walked through the middle of a … Continue reading →
5 March 2013….The rain is coming down harder and harder, the wipers can’t keep up with the torrents of water hitting the windscreen and the steep winding road has disintegrated to almost a four wheel drive track as it finds its way up this shrouded mountain. I put the car in its lowest gear, squint my eyes and hope for the best. If only I had my co-driver next to me … Continue reading →
No self-respecting cook in Thailand can survive long without a mortar and pestle. Julie is becoming a more serious student of Thai cooking, much to my benefit, but she was seriously lacking in the mortar and pestle department. I wasn’t even sure which one was the mortar and which one was the pestle so it seemed like a good excuse to have a weekend excursion and include a stop at … Continue reading →
The best time of year to be in Bangkok is December and January. Magnificent Christmas decorations fill every store and span every street in an annual attempt to remind millions of Buddhists to buy numerous gifts and eat too much with their family and friends. The weather is relatively cool and the city takes on a relaxed holiday atmosphere. And every year at this time we leave Bangkok and go … Continue reading →
Bangladesh is unquestionably one of the most colourful, interesting and photogenic places we have ever visited. Every time we turned our head we saw scenes that were undefinable in their uniqueness, beauty, colour and simplicity. The street scenes, the buildings and monuments, the different modes of transport, the fishing boats and the bright curious faces of the people we encountered everywhere will stay with us for a lifetime.
Continue reading →Flying domestically in Bangladesh is a novelty which becomes obvious when seeing the small airports, small prop planes, infrequent services and minimal security. It took us two domestic flights, numerous delays, a little bit of courage and a good sense of humour to fly from Jessore in the west to Cox’s Bazar in the southeast but the reward was to feast our eyes on the longest beach in the world … Continue reading →
