Lines on a map can sometimes seem a bit arbitrary or random, such as boundaries between countries or meaningless longitudinal markings.  We all understand the equator but really, what is the Tropic of Capricorn?  And who cares?  But there’s another line on the map that is our main focus this day in Antarctica – the Antarctic Circle.   This was the big day we were going to cross this imaginary line where in summer there is at least one day of continuous daylight and in winter one continuous day of darkness.  At 66 degrees 33’ 66” South (the navigator’s official measurement at this time of year) this was our target.

At 9.30 in the morning an announcement was made over the loudspeaker to head for the bow of the ship because we were about to cross the Circle.  It was getting colder, about -2C (28F), so we rugged up and were greeted by a growing party filling the open area at the front of the ship, complete with champagne, funny hats and music – especially the Beach Boys!  Amongst the photos and celebrations and general frivolity we stayed out there for two hours, enjoying the spectacular view all around us and the novelty of the moment.  Very special.

Julie and I went up to the bridge where we witnessed a moderate problem when the ship’s primary power source was lost – presumably the diesel generators – and they went to battery backup.  Eventually all was restored but the multiple loud piercing alarm systems and full Bridge crew in attendance, including the Captain, showed a fair amount of concern.  Since we were all alone as the first ship this far south this year I am sure he didn’t want a major problem.  There would be no other ship anywhere near to help us – kinda spooky.

The plan was to continue south to Detaille Island, an old British base long since closed which also has a penguin rookery.  From the bridge it slowly became clear that the beauty of the ever-increasing icebergs and pack ice (remember the rule, icebergs are fresh water, pack ice is sea water) and the growing number of beautiful huge icebergs (some the size of small towns) convinced the Captain we couldn’t get to our destination.  Never mind, we stopped and loaded into the Zodiacs for more than two hours of exploratory fun.

It was bitterly cold outside as we headed off in eight different Zodiacs thru the thick brash.  We circled a couple of beautiful huge bergs with the large ocean swell crashing upon their bases and sometimes forming waves.  We found small ice chunks of ‘black’ ice that was so old it was compressed such that all its oxygen had been squeezed out.

Suddenly the call came out – whales!  We all raced off and found two huge Humpback whales just lolling and relaxing in the area.  Just like yesterday, they were happy to stay in the area, especially good because the Zodiac engines would have been new and noisy for them.  They weren’t playful like yesterday but they swam underneath us and even popped their head up to give us a good look.  It was a huge experience – even with the fishy bad breath smell – and gave the non-kayakers an up-close whale experience.

Eventually we rejoined the ship and headed north back across the Antarctic Circle.  We spent about nine hours below the line, reaching 66 degrees, 44’ 768”.  This was a great achievement and everyone was ecstatic.  Most itineraries of Antarctic cruises don’t come this far south and of course the weather can always change any great plan.  It also means that I have crossed both the Arctic and Antarctic Circle – not a common feat! (Editor’s note – since that time Julie has also crossed the Arctic Circle as well.)

We woke the next morning at the southern end of the famous Lemaire Channel, a narrow passage between the mainland and Booth Island.  The weather was a bit overcast but the plan was to Zodiac or kayak in the vicinity or up the channel.

 

After brekkie we put on our moon suits and got psyched for another adventure.  The kayakers were the first ones down the gangway – as it should be – and having improved the process we were in our boats quicker this morning.  We started to explore the bay around us, including the many small icebergs and pack ice.  There were a couple of skua birds on one flow and a huge lazy leopard seal on another.  He didn’t mind a few photos during the occasional yawn, otherwise a bit bored by it all.  Safe to say we were just the opposite, amazing how close we could paddle to him if we wanted.

There was quite a bit of ice which made the paddling slower but more interesting. We made our way to the mouth of the Lemaire Channel with its 300 to 400 metre steep mountains and up to 100 metre ice walls rising from the water, some with huge slabs of ice like slices of bread that looked like they could crash down into the water at any moment.  We stayed in the middle to be safe!

As we paddled up the channel the view became better and better but the current and wind also grew.  The pack ice was sometimes moving in different directions and the drift was fast if we stopped paddling.  You could feel the force of nature all around you, wind, current, ice, mountains. 

Eventually we turned around and paddled against the current, meaning more pack ice and more uphill paddling.  A clearing in the ice could close within seconds and we felt we were a pawn in a big chess game.  The bergs would constantly move and the chop from the wind and the current made it hard going, especially through the chunky ice where sometimes we would have to ram large chunks of slushy ice to break through. 

After nearly a three hour paddle we had lunch and then got dressed again (Antarctica is all about changing your clothes and having meals mixed in with some time outside) for our landing at Port Charcot.

It was snowing and blowing hard by this time, making the long Zodiac trip tough.  The little cove where we landed, part of Booth Island, was swarming with cute Gentoo penguins.  The wind was blowing very hard, heads were bowed and feet splayed, and it tough to stand steady at times.  The whiteout blocked our view for everything except what was close by, but we cut through the snow and trudged up the hill to watch the Gentoo penguins walking around or up and down their distinct trails, incubating eggs, stealing rocks, squawking, sliding down their tracks on their bellies and a whole bunch more.  It was great fun observing them and taking photos despite the howling wind and snow.  It really felt like Antarctica!

Our ship repositioned overnight a bit further south at the Argentina Islands which is most significantly known today for the Ukrainian Veransky Station and we hit the gangway at 09.00 the following morning in a strong snowstorm and dark rough seas.  The Zodiac trip was beautiful in this tight and enclosed bay but bumpy and splashy for the Antarctic explorers.  Veransky Station (formerly Faraday Station by the Brits before being handed over in the 90’s) was a substantial set of buildings housing 13 men, mainly scientists but also some support crew.

We landed on their little jetty, walked up the slippery path and into the Ukrainian’s happy home.  We broke into small groups and Igor the friendly Ukrainian gave us a good tour of their labs and some support rooms (the English first discovered a hole in the ozone layer here).  They were all small and simple with what looked like old computer equipment and technology, before going upstairs for the kitchen, bar and gift shop.  We also posted some post cards and took photos of the colourful bar, pool table and recreation room.

This visit reminded reinforced to us why some of these rather obscure countries have stations in the Antarctica.  Ukraine isn’t known for its scientific or exploratory history but by having a post here they can lay claim to ‘owning’ – or at least occupying – a small slice of Antarctica.  Who knows, it may have some sort of geo-political East-vs-West value for them some day.

We continued our Zodiac trip up the channel to Wordie House, a British post built in 1947 and restored to that period.  It was a tricky ride up this channel with heavy pack ice floating constantly around us which slowed our Zodiac but we made the slippery landing and wandered through the old house.  It was small, dark and damp with low ceilings and clearly not given to excess.  Everything was left as per that time and it was hard to imagine four people living there for two years.  Small, very basic, certainly cold and claustrophobic.  Life here must have been crushingly boring and lonely.

At midday we caught the last Zodiac but had a hard time crashing through the pack ice again, making it good for video that I had been taking to help record our trip.  Then, unbeknownst to me at the time, tragedy struck.  The video camera was supposed to slide back into my big yellow Quark pocket but in the cold and with gloves I must have missed my target.  Another girl heard ‘something splash’ in the water but no one knew or saw anything.  When we got back to the cabin I couldn’t find the video and sickeningly realised what had happened.  Unbelievable, sad, angry, many lost memories on disk, $1,000 camera and no more video for this whole trip!

I was stunned and humbled by this mistake, numb thinking about what this meant to our trip and my personal interest in recording our journey.  I had to gather myself for an afternoon paddle while Julie opted for a shore excursion to see Adelie penguins. The seven remaining kayakers enjoyed a nearly three hour paddle into Woddington Bay, tucked in behind Yalour Islands. 

This was a great paddle into the glass-like bay with dramatic glaciers all around us, a seal on a small slab of ice, some Adelie penguins and great brash and slush to paddle through.  Time just flew by but eventually we made the long trip back to the ship – probably 8 to 10 km paddle all up.  A great way to end a day marked by many highs and one devastating low.