Like many people, Julie and I have lists, both written and saved to memory, of what we would like to do and where we would like to go before it’s too late.  Over the years the list has stretched longer and longer but one destination, one amazing adventure, loomed larger than all others in our imagination and our spreadsheets.  We also sensed it would be better that this quintessential trip of a lifetime happen before it was ‘too late’ (never clearly defined) or before something came up that stopped us.  So in the southern summer of 2008/09 we pulled the trigger on our biggest of all big travel ideas and embarked on the ultimate in soft adventure travel – Antarctica.

But one does not go to Antarctica lightly.  There are many things to consider, in particular the type of ship to go on, the itinerary of the cruise, the things to see and do before and after the cruise and the courage to pay for it all.  Naturally we wanted to go as economical (read: cheap) as possible but we also knew we’d probably never be back and our research told us there were a few ‘must do’s’ while we were there.  The cruises all left from the southern Argentinian port town of Ushuaia so that gave us a chance to see a bit of South America as well.

Our final plan was to join Quark Expeditions on a 16 day Antarctica adventure cruise aboard a Russian icebreaker, a ship that holds only about 100 passengers.  The journey would include kayaking, camping on the ice, crossing the Antarctic Circle (very rare) and many long onshore excursions. Perfect for us.

So after years of dreaming, more than a year of planning, many months of fevered anticipation, plus organising jobs, kids, budgets, flights, visas and travel plans while in Argentina, and everything else that goes with this sort of epic journey, the day finally came.  We were off to Antarctica.

On 27 December 2008 we were up early, gave our boys a final hug and with mixed emotions – leaving the boys for almost a month was not a trivial step – we were off to the airport.  How will the boys cope without us and will the house survive?  Will they even notice we’re gone?

The 13 hour flight dropped us off on the other side of the world in Buenos Aires, one of the most dynamic and cosmopolitan cities in the world and the capital of Argentina.  The greater metropolitan area of BA, as its known, is the home of more than 12 million portenos, as they are known and today has few regional rivals for its history, culture, architecture and modern lifestyle.  What started off as a trading port for the Spanish in the 16th century is now the main starting point for visitors to South America.  Like us.

Our base in Buenos Aires was a hotel on Avenida Callao near the Recoleta, an upmarket neighbourhood in the downtown area.  We might have been groggy from the flight and melting from the 30 degree heat and thick humidity but we were in BA and keen to explore its rich history, wide streets and busy shops.

We caught the slightly shabby Metro (Subte) to the historical, political and cultural centre of town, Plaza de Mayo.  Plaza de Mayo was somewhat under-stated with a few boring 1960’s government buildings spoiling some of the other grander structures.  The impressive baroque Cathedral from 19^th Century is particularly significant to the locals and the eternal flame outside celebrates Argentina’s independence hero Juan de San Martin. The highlight of the plaza is La Casa Rosada, the imposing pink building which is today the Executive Mansion and office of the President.

We were losing steam but refused to give up, making our way to Avineda Florida, the famous long walking and shopping street that helps define modern day BA.  We browsed the shops, sampled the ice cream and admired this bustling vibrant setting.  All great stuff.

We might have been buggered from the long flight and the huge day but we still had enough in us for a big Saturday night. We caught a cab up to Plaza Serreno in the trendy area called Palermo and found a great setting for the evening.  Around the Plaza were endless outdoor bars and restaurants and street markets.

It was a beautiful warm evening, beautiful casual Argentinians, shady tree-lined streets, all great.  We had a few drinks in one sidewalk café, wandered and shopped in the footpath markets and then found a superb Argentinean steakhouse, great steaks and an Argentinean Cabernet for less than $50.  A great finish to what was a long tough day, the long flight, the new surroundings, trying to see it all and not fall over in exhaustion.  We survived it and loved it!  And this was only the first day!