What better way to start your day than with a quick swim down the back steps of your bungalow in the crystal clear water of the Maldives?  With a clear head and plenty of sunscreen we walked out on the pier over 500 metres long to reach the jetty and our boat for an island hopping half day excursion.  As our old wooden vessel puttered across the turquoise waters between the shallow reefs we saw our first hornbill turtle, a large round beast flapping nonchalantly just below the surface. 

 

 The first island we visited was dubbed a fishing village (with the village covering the entire island the two words become interchangeable) but we saw no sign of fishing and very little sign of any meaningful activity, although this could be owing to the 35 degree weather and 79 % humidity.  With no breeze and little shade lesser men would have melted on the spot. Maldives is hot.

 The locals had adopted a better pastime, sitting in hammock-like chairs hanging from the large shady trees near the water’s edge.  The chairs were rectangle concoctions made of wood or metal or PVC with a net strung inside the rectangle, the whole thing hanging by four ropes from the tree.  People of all ages wiled away the hours swinging or snoring in these ingenious chairs.  Julie and I decided we had to have one.

 The village was said to have 500 people and our guide Ismail from our resort was actually from this island, even saying hello to his nephew who passed by on an old push bike.  The village was clean and well-kept but the ‘streets’ were all dirt and there were no motorized vehicles.  The homes were brightly painted, had plenty of shade inside and out, electricity and for the most part running water. 

 We were told most of the people worked at one of the nearby resorts but there was some fishing and local handicrafts also being done.  Overall we got the impression of a content comfortable people living a modest life with minimal modern luxuries and no rush to get to the next activity.  But jeez it was hot.

 Ismail spoke reluctantly about the tsunami in 2004 and tsunamis in general.  The 2004 tsunami flushed over the island about 8 feet high.  He showed us a high water mark on one old wall.  But he said the high water only lasted about one minute and only one baby on the island was lost.  The worst part was that everyone lost all their personal possessions and many old buildings were destroyed.  He pointed out a few new buildings constructed after the tsunami, including a beautiful little mosque. 

 We asked him about the tsunami early warning system but he said the people didn’t pay too much attention because the alarm sometimes would go off but no wave would follow.  This proved the scientists weren’t good at their job and most people believed in their Creator to protect them.  Indeed, we had heard as recently as the previous week when there was a huge earthquake again in Sumatra that most men went to the mosque to pray rather than heading for higher ground.  Of course in the Maldives there is no higher ground to head to anyway so probably the mosque is your best bet.

 Our old boat cruised to the next island through beautiful clear waters while we stood on the flat roof being fried by the sun but cooled by the breezes. Ismail and the boat boys spotted an eagle ray below the water surface.  An eagle ray is like sting ray but black and is said to be able to jump out of the water, hence the name.  We later saw a dozen of them all lolling about on the sandy floor, a family of different sizes.  Very cool.

 The next stop was the town of Muli which is the capital of the Meeru Atoll, with about 1,000 people including a decent hospital, police station, post office and communication network.  Our walking tour of Muli will be remembered for the long straight sandy ‘streets’ (again, no vehicles on the island) and almost completely bereft of life save a few kids wandering about or the odd old lady shuffling along in whatever shade she could find. 

Despite the extreme heat which had a wilting impact on us we found Muli interesting and the paceless lifestyle seemed totally appropriate to our location on the world map and the repressive climate.

That afternoon we caught the boat for an hour of snorkeling at a nearby reef.  This small reef had some beautiful healthy coral sporting a wide range of tropical fish, beautiful bright colours, shapes and sizes, some huge clams with those wavy mouths that flinch when you move your hand near them and some stunning coral.

Coming in many different shapes and sizes they swam amongst the coral, eating, playing, hiding in the little nooks and crannies but mostly oblivious to us snorkelers.  Some even seemed to come up to us for a closer look or turn to us with an inquisitive eye before darting off. 

The colours of these fish were outstanding but there were a few standouts.  A bright Blue Surgeon fish with yellow stripes were common (and matched a wooden carved fish Julie bought in Muli) but there was also a blue and orange and yellow rainbow-type coloured fish, my favourite, just stunning.  Probably dozens of types, most with their bright distinctive colours, just going about their business.  In those short 40 minutes in the water we were hooked again on snorkeling.

Sunset drinks and then at dinner I adopted Julie’s technique of exploring the buffet and selectively picking at the choices rather than my usual method of attacking the buffet.  It seemed to work better.

The next day the focus was to be on snorkeling, which is good unless you are lying in bed listening to a huge thunder and lightning storm and rain lashing your bungalow for most of the night.  We woke to gray stormy clouds and uncertain snorkeling prospects.

 But snorkel we did.  In fact, snorkel in spades. The snorkel safari stopped at three different reefs, all of them outstanding collections of coral and fish.  The first was called Table Reef and we were introduced for the first time to Team Snorkeling which is basically following the trail of Sunil, our dark-skinned fish-like leader.  The reef was alive with beautiful coral of all shapes, colours and sizes, brains, tentacles, tables, wavy hairy stuff, all imaginable manners plus more.  Was this the best snorkeling we’d ever seen?

But the star of the show were the fish, in great quantities and colours, swimming in singles or large schools, putting the best rainbows to shame.  Colour combinations defied explanation but blues and yellows were common, some reds and blacks or oranges and blacks, many variations of aqua blues and greens, stripes, spots, unnamed patterns, it just went on and on. 

 From there we reloaded and went to Triple Reef and snorkeled along the edge and between them until the dive boat picked us up at the other end.  One distinct feature here were the large coral structures shaped like dining room tables with a single sturdy leg under it, the largest of which had enough room to throw an aquatic dinner party for ten.

We then motored to our third reef of the day which had the supreme bonus of having a hornbill turtle for our snorkeling pleasure.  He was a sleepy lazy sort of guy, in no hurry to avoid the tourists that come occasionally, but his indifference allowed us to get close and personal as he paddled through the water.  We also saw garfish and a puffer fish, something different from the usual colours and shapes.

And as we motored back to the resort under darkening clouds we had great satisfaction of having seen the Big Three of snorkeling in these waters – shark (well, many small Reef Sharks near our bungalow and out on the long pier), Sting Rays (many along the pier, outside our back porch, on the boat trips) and now the Hornbill Turtle (and the following day, lazily swimming past our back deck). 

The next morning exposed a bit surprise – sunshine, sparkling waters, nary a threatening cloud in the sky.  Good conditions for snorkeling so on the snorkel boat we jumped.  The reef of choice this morning was not too big but it was packed with beautiful coral and an amazing array of fish, including different kinds of angel fish, trigger fish and surgeon fish plus many more, almost always oblivious to the large alien beings floating around them.   Their variety in colours, shapes and sizes meant we had endless entertainment. 

The rest of the morning was wasted away soaking up the sun and surf on our back deck before we climbed into Air Maldivian Taxi’s bright red Twin Otter airplane and flew low over the sparkling atolls to Hulhumale Island which hosts the Male International Airport. 

Back to Male and time to take in a few more sights, including the busy fish market and local back street bazaars, the tourist and souvenir shops along Chaandhanee Magu where everyone stops you to visit ‘their’ shop, the Islamic Centre, the local ice cream shop for three scoops of their best and much more.  Dinner overlooking the busy ferry terminal then back to the airport for our late night flight back to Bangkok. 

What can we say about the Maldives other than absolutely magic?  Yes, getting there was a bit of a hassle but who can knock a seaplane trip over those beautiful reefs and atolls.  And yes, the buffet wore us down a bit but the unlimited free drinks were a popular twist.  We hit a below average patch of weather over the few days we were there but with the spectacular setting all around us it didn’t seem to matter.  The endless snorkeling, the dazzling water and beautiful creatures within, the people we met, the whole thing was absolutely memorable.  Maldives Magic!!