Another tropical island escape
We were very busy doing nothing on koh Kood
Koh Kood is not your normal first pick island holiday destination in Thailand. In fact for most people it wouldn’t rank in the top four or five islands, mainly because it is further away from Bangkok, not really developed to western standards and overshadowed by its larger and more popular neighbour Koh Chang. All these reasons made it an ideal place for us to spend a recent long weekend.
In fact, Koh Kood, sometimes spelled Koh Koot or Koh Kut, is the last inhabited island down the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand before you get to Cambodia. In order to get to the pier for your ferry you have to drive through the regional town of Trat, a total journey of almost five hours. Then there is almost two hours on the ‘slow boat’ ferry and another hour sitting in the back of an open truck before you get dropped off at your little resort. So it’s not for the faint hearted.
The sleepy fishing port on Koh Kood
Koh Kood was all about slowing down
Koh Kood is the fourth largest island in Thailand and is seriously hilly. Steep jungle-covered mountains rise up from the crystal clear water and there is no easy port on the eastern side of the island. We docked next to all the local fishing boats and quickly loaded into the back of an old sawng thaew which is an open truck with long bench seats that act as the local transfer service between pier and hotel. The ride is slow and bumpy but you get to know the person sitting next to you pretty well and the views out the open sides are fantastic.
Our view from the balcony of our bungalow
The resorts on Koh Kood are fairly modest affairs, usually Thai three star places with bungalows and a central building for meals. Some are on the small beaches on the western side of the island, others are up on the hill overlooking the water. Our ‘resort’ (one of the most over-used and exaggerated words in Thailand) had a small pool and had kayaks and snorkeling gear to rent. Our bungalow overlooked the beach shaded by tall leaning coconut palms and our little balcony was ideal for cocktail hour as we watched the sunset over the ocean. That’s what I’m talking about.
The scenery was beautiful
We spent most of our time on the island indolently but did manage a long walk along the nearby beaches and a two hour kayak paddle along the coast and up a nearby canal which was covered by dense mangroves and forests of palm trees. Magic stuff.
Cocktail hour with a million baht view
Choices of restaurants were limited but we did eat one night at a nearby resort, the highlight of which was when a large gecko the size of a blue tongue lizard emerged in the rafters of the open air restaurant and sent a large group of Thais squeamishly scattering for the exits. Beware the killer geckos, I say.
Julie at dusk playing in the water
Having had a lot of downtime, some sun, a few beers, many photos and a bit of exercise we caught the speedboat back to the mainland pier. This added to the weekend variety show as we enjoyed the views while weaving our way through the nearby islands and islets, picking up passengers and skirting around large and small rock mounds of jungle sticking up from the sea.
Some of the locals have a very unique look
Back on terra firma and reunited with our Toyota Wish we headed back toward Bangkok, stopping at Phliu Waterfall National Park to see the popular waterfall and adjoining area. After enjoying the local delicacy – barbeque chicken in a rich sauce cooked and served on a bamboo stick – we paid our fees for the park. Well, Julie had to pay 200 Baht (yes, $6.50 – she’s expensive to keep) because with my Thai driver’s license I get into Thai National parks very cheap, or in this case, for free.
Late afternoon amongst the coconut palms
We automatically did the 1.5 km nature trail around the waterfall, which was a beautiful jungle walk but a bit of hard work up and down the hills in the stifling heat. Finally the waterfall itself, and what a place. Literally hundreds of local families from very young to very old were scattered all over the rocks and splashing in the cool water. The pools below the high multi-tied waterfalls were filled with splashing people, mostly fully dressed (very normal in conservative Thailand), and all of them having the time of their lives.
But the most amazing thing about this place were the fish. Very large black carp of some sort lived in these waters and were fed by and played with by the hordes of locals who came every day. To see kids splashing around these large and numerous but totally innocuous fish in the shallow pools was really quite a treat. A giant natural playground for kids of all ages!
A few nature lovers enjoying Phliu Waterfall
But to keep in the spirit of jamming absolutely as much as possible into every weekend we piled back into our mighty beast and drove up to Bangkok, stopping at the side of the motorway to quickly upgrade our attire and then go to a friend’s house who were hosting a few people to celebrate the King’s birthday.
Children playing with fish, perfectly normal
From their high rise apartment overlooking Benjakiti Park near downtown Bangkok we dined and drank with good friends while enjoying the numerous fireworks displays and raising our glass to our King. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej is the longest serving monarch in the world, now celebrating his 84th birthday, and the heart and soul of this country. Long live the King.