All good things must come to an end and Julie and I knew our northern summer in the western US was on it’s sunset days. But first we had time for more fun in the sun, great walks in the mountains and a very special birthday celebration. And of course it all happened at Tahoe. The highlight of our entire three month trip to the US was to celebrate my … Continue reading →
California is different to the rest of the United States, to the enjoyment of some and the consternation of others. The lifestyle, culture, weather, economy, diversity and politics make it stand out from the other 49 states. Silicon Valley, Hollywood, the Golden Gate, the beaches, the redwoods, California is different. If California was an independent country it would have the 5th largest economy in the world. It is also a … Continue reading →
We’ve said it before but one of the great attractions of travelling in the US is the national parks. On the top of that list for many people is Yosemite National Park in the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains not too far south of Lake Tahoe. Julie and I wanted to take in this magnificent place again and when I scored a three day pass online we were ready … Continue reading →
There’s nothing better than family and Julie and I are both lucky to be part of very large families – each of us the oldest of five children, now with many nieces and nephews. In fact, our three kids have an impressive 24 cousins spread out between the US and Australia. So of course while Julie and I were in the American neighbourhood we set aside a bucket-load of time … Continue reading →
When Julie and I bought Tramp in early 2017 and set off on our around-the-world journey we dubbed Follow the Sun we were full of excitement and anticipation. An almost life-long dream was finally coming true but we were wonderfully naïve about the amazing adventures and not-so-amazing challenges that lie ahead. Six and a half years later, we completed our journey across five continents and 70 countries, which amazes us … Continue reading →
We pulled Tramp over to get out and admire the spectacular multi-coloured sandstone creations towering around us, the wonders of uplifting ocean floors and millions of years of wind and water erosion, and commented that ever since we had entered Utah this wonderful scenery was the new normal. We called it Utah normal. We had a plan to get back to our home base in California in less than a … Continue reading →
The fourth of July, also known as Independence Day, is America’s birthday. It was on this day in 1776 that Congress adopted the Declaration of Independence which formalised the colonies’ divorce from Great Britain. And America, already the most patriotic country we’ve ever been to, puffs out it’s chest, puts up all it’s red, white and blue flags, buys out all the hot dogs and celebrates this day like no … Continue reading →
It has been said that America’s best idea was it’s national parks, precious land set aside for all to see for generations to come. And even for those who haven’t been to the US names like Yosemite, Yellowstone and Grand Canyon are well known as the best of the best national parks in the US. But arguably in that same top tier of parks is a very special place in … Continue reading →
Americans love to recreate. And this country has by far and away the best recreation facilities of anywhere we’ve visited. Whether it’s protected land like national parks, monuments, forests, or simple ‘recreation areas’ like reservoirs, rivers, ATV and offroad vehicle land or open parkland or state parks or county parks or a much longer list America has it all and it is all over the place. And Colorado has to … Continue reading →
They say that all good things must come to an end and we certainly proved it in the upmarket ski resort town of Crested Butte. It was here that my sister Kathy and her husband John had to leave us to get back to family commitments in California. They had been travelling with us for almost three weeks and we had made an excellent foursome. Julie and I usually don’t … Continue reading →
The Rocky Mountains are probably America’s most famous geographic feature. This towering mountain range runs from British Colombia and Alberta in Canada through numerous American states before finally petering out in northern New Mexico. Probably it’s most famous and most visited sections are in the state of Colorado and we were smack dab amongst it all. Colorado alone has a staggering 58 peaks over 14,000 feet (4,240 metres), dozens of … Continue reading →
Julie and I often shake our head in wonder about how travel delivers amazing new experiences every day, usually when we least expect it. And here’s yet another day to prove this axiom – we drove through the high mountains near Santa Fe, New Mexico and unexpectedly came across the stunning Valles Caldera National Preserve. If that wasn’t enough, later in the day we learned all about the making of … Continue reading →
If I had any tourism statistics I would bet the state of New Mexico is near the bottom of the list for visitors. And it’s true that New Mexico does not have any Grand Canyons, Yellowstones, Empire State Buildings or Golden Gate Bridges. If you want to only hit the biggest of the highlights in the US you won’t be coming to New Mexico. But be warned, you’ll be missing … Continue reading →
American states each have a tagline, usually displayed proudly on their license plates. For instance, there’s boring ones like the Peach State (Georgia) or Empire State (New York), some are more descriptive like Big Sky Country (Montana), historic like Land of Lincoln (Illinois) or braggers like Grand Canyon State (Arizona). But New Mexico creates a special aspirational category all to themselves – this low profile state call themselves the Land … Continue reading →
We crossed the Colorado River and entered the state of Arizona, one of the most remarkable states in all the US. Known mostly for the Grand Canyon and it’s expansive deserts, Arizona has a special place in our family – my brother and his family live here, numerous other family members have lived here over the years and I was born here (although it was a long time ago!). Julie … Continue reading →
Julie and I love the beaches and we spend as much time as possible with sand and surf. We also crave the mountains with their snowy tops, jagged peaks, stunning walks and amazing views. But we have always held a special place for the wide open spaces, the long flat prairies, the barren lifeless bush and the endless desert. The desert fascinates us and amazes us at every turn. And … Continue reading →
The setting was sparkling with it’s lush and colourful gardens, the adobe-style architecture of the historic lodge set as a background and a couple hundred well-appointed guests gathered under a cool blue sky. The beautiful bride and our nephew-turned-groom looked absolutely magnificent and we were surrounded by close family. The moment couldn’t have been more perfect. And in this grand way Julie and I started a three month trip where … Continue reading →
Some places just grab you and never let you go. They are beautiful or memorable in different ways but no matter where you go afterwards you always remember them. Julie and I have such a place and we’re fortunate it is also very close to where we live in Australia. And curiously, it is a town that no longer exists, lost to the Aussie bush and the passage of time. … Continue reading →
Julie and I are old school when it came to plotting our course across five continents during our Follow the Sun journey. We used a combination of fold-out maps, map books, guide books and the occasional reference from Mr. Google to plan each of our 755 days on the road. To supplement all that at a micro level, we often used our GPS – which we named Karen – to … Continue reading →
Somewhere around 30 years ago I said to Julie that when we retire I wanted to drive around the world in some sort of camper. It was a crazy notion at that time but kind of fun to have as a future goal, even if it was unlikely to come true. And other than saying the words we put very little definition or details around the notion at that time, … Continue reading →
Our Follow the Sun journey was almost over and we were slowly inching our way to our start/finish line at my mother’s house in California. And as a special treat we’ll be there in time for Thanksgiving – the biggest family event in America. Our trip across the States over the last month has had great purpose and intent, exploring as many new places on the way as possible. Along … Continue reading →
When we planned this journey across the northern states of America it had a specific time frame due to us wanting to spend Thanksgiving with family in California. It wasn’t our normal style to have a set timeline but we mapped a rough journey which included a few key spots along the way and headed off. Never did we ever imagine in that planning we would spend five nights in … Continue reading →
There’s a part of America that almost nobody goes to and almost nobody lives there. It has endless flat open plains, melting hot in summer and bitterly cold in winter. It is divided into two almost identically-shaped states, the north and the south, with capitals that nobody else knows. There are no standout sports teams and no household names came from there. And yet, and yet, they are wonderfully compelling … Continue reading →
The 49th Parallel, as it’s called, marks the border between the US and Canada from the Pacific Ocean to the Great Lakes. Signed as part of the Oregon Treaty in 1846 it ended years of dispute between the US and Britain and allowed trade between the two countries to continue with clearer rules. We had decided not to cross into Canada on this leg of Follow the Sun but it … Continue reading →
Normally at this time of year around the Great Lakes – late October – people are gearing up for their Halloween celebrations and hunkering down for the onset of winter. Summer cabins on the lakes are being winterised, boats stored indoors, winter tyres dusted off, state parks are shuttered, beanies and gloves pulled out. The sky stays grey, the temperatures drops, the days get shorter and in due course the … Continue reading →
The Great Lakes, as if you didn’t know, are the five huge lakes that straddle the US-Canada border and support one of the most significant economic regions of each country. As a young lad in California they meant very little to me but I remember using the mnemonic HOMES to memorise all five – Huron, Ontario, Michigan, Erie and Superior. And for decades my interest in them ended there. But … Continue reading →
Julie and I had a fantastic time exploring parts of the United States in 2017 during the first continent of Follow the Sun. From California we looped south across the continent to Florida and then more or less up the east coast into Canada. That was great but the US is a huge place and we barely touched the surface of cool places to visit. So on this final leg … Continue reading →
Life without Tramp is basically a string of hotels, restaurants and public transport while living out of our roller bags, sprinkled with valuable time amongst good friends but without the joy of travel the way we like to do it. So it was with mounting excitement that we settled in the greater Baltimore area and positioned ourselves close to the port where Tramp would eventually be released back to our … Continue reading →
The capital of the United States is Washington DC, or District of Colombia, or simply DC to the locals. It is a district, not a state, much like the ACT is the home of Australia’s capital but not a state. The shenanigans that go on in DC make the evening news every night but that wasn’t going to deter us from seeing this fascinating city and learning more about how … Continue reading →
I think you could spend a month in New York and not see all the great attractions in this vast city but we only had a week and wanted to pack in as much as we could. Up to this point we had spent most of our time in the midtown area around Times Square but we were now ready to branch out. New York is just about as big … Continue reading →
It’s known as The Big Apple, Gotham, the city that never sleeps, the capital of the world, the Empire City, Metropolis and many other nicknames but as one of the most dynamic, frenetic, influential and chaotic cities in the world it is a mecca for any traveller passing through these parts. And here we were, arriving from London after reluctantly leaving Tramp behind for his cruise across the Atlantic, keen … Continue reading →
I recently read that Belgium is the most overlooked country in Europe. And it kinda rings true to me because most visitors to Europe will probably prioritise other places before spending time in this country, except maybe just to transit it on the way to somewhere else. But here we were in Belgium with four days to explore the historic city of Bruges and the capital Brussels before we fly … Continue reading →
The time was fast approaching when we would give Tramp a final hug and send him off on his ocean cruise back home to America while we took the fast way and flew across the Atlantic. But before that teary moment we still had a few things to do and a bit of the Netherlands to see. First order of the day was to get our Webasto diesel cooker working … Continue reading →
Ah yes, Deutschland. We have been to Germany many times over the years and have fabulous memories of exploring it’s many corners under all sorts of different circumstances. The previous day we had crossed the border from Poland, failed to get our Webasto cooker fixed, and camped outside of Berlin with the plan to revisit this wonderful city. The cold drizzle didn’t deter us, we were keen to explore the … Continue reading →
We could tell we were back in central Europe – more locals speak English and follow the road rules, everything is more expensive, people ride bicycles and electric scooters everywhere, there are tour groups at every half-popular tourist site…and even English-speaking tourists. After a couple months of exploring countries where there are no tour groups and certainly no travellers speaking English this almost qualified as culture shock. We woke up … Continue reading →
Shipping your vehicle from continent to continent is by far the most stressful part of overland travel. We have shipped Tramp four times on large container ships by what is called the Roll On Roll Off method because he is too big to fit in a container. But no matter how often you do this it is not easy and over the last couple of months we have been trying … Continue reading →
Yes, Moldova. What exactly is a Moldova? Julie and I asked the same question a short while ago when we saw this forgotten former Soviet satellite country on the map tucked away quietly between Romania and Ukraine. It intrigued us which led us to researching it and our curiosity led us to the border crossing at the southern tip of the country. And after two and a half hours passing … Continue reading →
The Danube River is one of the most well-known rivers in the world, slicing it’s way through the heart of Europe, hosting countless river boat cruises, flanked by medieval castles, feeding fertile vineyards on it’s slopes and providing commerce, transportation and wonderful views to millions of people. But eventually it’s journey ends in Romania as it fans out onto it’s vast flat flood plains, forming a delta covering thousands of … Continue reading →
Romania is unquestionably off the usual European tourist map. There is no steady stream of mini RV’s from France or Germany, no educational tour groups from the US, no young people in vans or hitchhikers and only a few motorbikes. Romania is a little too far away from central Europe and doesn’t have any big bang attractions to draw people in. And that’s good for us. We’ve been spending most … Continue reading →
Everybody knows about Transylvania. It’s the scary, spooky and mysterious place where Dracula lived. And if you’re my vintage you probably saw Dracula movies in the cinema which scared the living daylights out of you. Dracula was not to be messed with, especially if you had a nice neck. But Julie and I are brave travellers and we drove into the deepest and darkest corners of Transylvania trying to learn … Continue reading →
Our failed attempt at getting third party insurance for Tramp in Serbia, either before we entered or after we entered, meant we only spent two nights in this complex country with it’s chequered recent history before returning to Bulgaria and plotting a new course. Overlanding travel is all about flexibility because you never know what’s going to happen next but luckily it’s one of our strengths and we had a … Continue reading →
The poet William Wordsworth once wrote, “There’s joy in the mountains’’ and Julie and I felt that joy as we stood at 2,100 metres (6,900 feet) with the Pirin Mountains towering over us. We had reluctantly reached the turnaround point of our walk from Vihren Hut to Okato Lake and beyond in the heart of Pirin National Park. From this point we were above the ski resort that covers some … Continue reading →
After about two months in Türkiye, Armenia and Georgia we felt a little spoiled for travel experiences. Those three countries, and especially Türkiye, are fabulous places to explore at your own pace and we felt a little hungover when we entered Bulgaria. But after four days in this former communist country, which is now in the EU and part of NATO but still finding it’s feet in other ways, we … Continue reading →
Driving out of Istanbul was definitely sweet sorrow because it meant we had left behind one of our best experiences on our entire trip – and that’s saying something! – and it also meant our time in Türkiye was near it’s end. But there were a few more surprises left for us before we crossed any borders and in Türkiye that can only be good. Our plan was to head … Continue reading →
When you think of great cities in the world places such as London, New York, Paris and Rome immediately come to mind. But if you dig a little deeper there are a few other great cities in the world that don’t get enough attention and absolutely one of them has to be Istanbul. Istanbul is the heart throb of Turkey, bridging east and west, sharing land in both Europe and … Continue reading →
I’ve said it before but it’s worth repeating – Turkey is a very large country, diverse in it’s geographical features, it’s history, even it’s culture. This big and beautiful place has many faces and to see them you have to do some driving, which isn’t too bad since the countryside is absolutely gorgeous and we love to drive! We headed a bit southward from Safranbolu on what was essentially a … Continue reading →
Türkiye had so far delivered many wonderful surprises as we travelled around it’s distant corners but as we were about to learn, not all surprises are wonderful. However, even bad things can end well and to put a unique Türkish twist on it all, during the whole horrible process we can even make some fabulous new friends. We left our beach camp near Sinop and headed further westward along the … Continue reading →
Okay, the Black Sea is huge, like really big. Türkiye’s coastline (yes, I’m using the new correct spelling of the country) of the Black Sea runs approximately 1,350 kilometres and since we’re averaging only 150 kilometres per day and if you take in our usual stops and detours and U turns that means it’s going to take us quite a while to cover the whole distance. But that’s okay, we’ve … Continue reading →
The Black Sea and the Caspian Sea are these two huge bodies of water, giant lakes really, which dominate this huge western and central Asia region. The vertically-standing Caspian Sea to the east has proved our nemesis because it sits between us and the central Asian countries collectively known as the Stans which we couldn’t get to. And the horizontally-lying Black Sea to the west is in the news every … Continue reading →
Every day in Georgia has been great fun, seeing fascinating new places, interacting with the locals, having great travel experiences. It’s not all about 11th century monasteries, although sometimes it feels that way, and whether it is the mountains, rivers, vast rural scenes or quaint forgotten villages you can always find something amazing. Take for instance, the 11th century church in the tongue-twisting town of Mtskheta – which is pronounced … Continue reading →
The Greater Caucasus Mountains form a natural border between big brother Russia and former satellite republic Georgia. These two countries have had a love-hate relationship for the last couple hundred years, and currently they have some serious differences, so perhaps it’s good they have such a formidable barrier to separate them. As we further explore Georgia we couldn’t pass up a chance to climb into these high and mighty mountains … Continue reading →
Indeed, Georgia has been on our mind lately. We crossed the border into Georgia after a great week in Armenia and headed up to the country’s bopping capital, Tbilisi. Originally we were going turn east from here and head for Azerbaijan but since that plan has been shot through the heart we are now intent on spending some quality time here and exploring this fascinating crossroads country. Like the other … Continue reading →
Follow the Sun – our crazy ambitious plan to drive around the world across five continents – had been a dream of ours for more than 30 years. We had invested a lot of personal capital into this plan, our savings, our careers, our family, just to make this happen. It’s one thing to say we’re going to do it, it’s a completely different thing to say we did it. … Continue reading →
Armenia hits you hard when you first arrive, it’s roads, it’s economy, the standard of living, the serious-looking people, the recent history and the immediate prospects. But after a little while you see Armenia from a different light – hard working people, proud of their culture, their two largest cities punch above their weight, the little acts of kindness, a smile and a wave, a helpful hand when we need … Continue reading →
There was a lot of confusion and questions about Tramp’s US registration which required four Customs officials to discuss it in detail and a call to head office to approve it but eventually they grunted and waved us through the final barrier. We were officially in our first Caucasus country – Georgia. After a couple of weeks traversing Turkey we were sad to go but excited to explore a new … Continue reading →
Turkey was becoming very addictive and it wouldn’t have been hard to fall deeper into it’s welcoming arms. But we needed to resist temptation and move eastward so we spent the next three days driving across the vast emptiness of eastern Anatolia to the Georgia border. Or at least that was the plan. The roads in Turkey are generally very good and out in the rural areas there are less … Continue reading →
You would need the best of Disney to dream up a place where an entire civilisation digs their homes into soft sandstone mountains which come in all sorts of fantastical cone-shaped designs, the dwellings sometimes up to eight levels deep, all of which are perfect for hot summers, cold winters and to hide from their enemies. Or just come to Cappadocia in the central regions of Turkey and see it … Continue reading →
We pulled out the map of Turkey and did some rough sums and realised, wow, Turkey is one big country! Our plan, such as it is, is to drive across the southern stretches of Turkey and then head north until we hit the Caucasus countries of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan. But when you look at the map those mysterious countries look a long way away. Well, we’re up for the … Continue reading →
Tramp drove confidently onto the little ferry in the Turkish town of Kilitbahir and sat patiently as we motored our way across the Dardanelles to the other side and docked at the town of Canakkale. Tramp had probably done more than 50 ferries during our Follow the Sun trip but none was more symbolically important than this one. When he drove off the ferry and entered the usual chaos of … Continue reading →
Inevitably when you travel, especially in Europe, you are looking at the past. It is usually old – and amazing – timeless churches for sure, but it could also be palaces, museums, fortresses, roads, bridges, ruins…just about everything is old compared to Australia or the US. We’ve already seen a few wonders of the past on this trip but we’re about to be treated to a couple of real standouts … Continue reading →
If you are like me, when you hear the word Kosovo you glaze over a bit, vaguely remembering they were heavily involved in the horrific Balkan wars of the 1990’s, and you’d probably say they came out second best. All true, and in the super-complex geo-political, religious, cultural and historic setting that these countries find themselves so tangled up in, Kosovo had few shining moments. Their biggest moment came when … Continue reading →
In the Balkans some of the countries are fairly small and their borders tend to twist and turn around each other. But Julie and I are very greedy travellers and we want to see it all. We have a saying that we need to treat a new place as if we’re never coming back. So that means we sometimes have to zig-zag a little bit to see everything we possibly … Continue reading →
Ah, the Balkans. We’ve always wanted to go there and explore their different cultures, histories and languages, the magnificent eastern coastline of the Adriatic Sea and the rugged inland mountains. Yes, the Balkans promise so much to the traveller. But wait, hold on, we have been to this region a long time ago when most of what is referred to today as the Balkans made up the former country of … Continue reading →
The first thing we liked about driving off the ferry into France is we get to drive on the right-hand side of the road again. For me it doesn’t matter, left or right, whatever, except Tramp is a left hand drive car so that means that for the last 12 countries we’ve been in (all of southern Africa plus all of the UK) I’m sitting on the gutter side of … Continue reading →
Our Follow the Sun journey, which we had dreamed about, planned and anticipated for over 30 years, finally began in early 2017 when we left my parents’ house in California for our five continent around-the-world journey. With our faithful Tramp as our home on wheels we toured North America, Central and South America, then Europe and southern Africa. You can read more about those journeys here. By the end of … Continue reading →
Australia is home to some of the best multi-day walks in the world, covering a variety of environments such as forests, deserts, coastal stretches and alpine mountains. In short, we’re spoiled for choice, both on quality and quantity. But one walk has always stood out on any list, and particularly the one between my ears, and that is the Larapinta Trail in the Northern Territory. And when all the stars … Continue reading →
No holiday is complete without dropping in to see friends who live in some beautiful place you rarely get to. And when those friends are joined by other mutual friends to turn it into an eight-some weekend – well, it doesn’t get any better than that. And so it was that we left beautiful Congo Beach and headed north to rendezvous with three other couples in Bendalong, a beautiful and … Continue reading →
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the Australian Alps on the Victoria side are absolutely stunning. We wanted to maximise our time in this inter-connected string of national parks and state forests that cover all of north-eastern Victoria while still leaving time to take in some sunshine on their wonderful beaches. Our target for the day was remote Errinundra National Park which has basically no paved roads … Continue reading →
One of the great things about living in Sydney is that it is better than Melbourne. In fact, ask anyone living in the state and they’ll tell you New South Wales is better than Victoria. Better weather, better beaches, better footy codes, better ski resorts, better history and culture, better beer, better everything. And Sydney, one of the great cities in the world, casts a long shadow over an admittedly … Continue reading →
Some places are very special to visit but they’re a long way away and you have to be committed to make it there. But other places are equally spectacular and only a short distance away, almost in your back yard, so to speak. We tend to overlook such places because they’re not part of a longer or more elaborate journey. This is the case of the Victorian Alps, locally known … Continue reading →
As the chapter for 2022 closes we’ve taken a moment to reflect on our reinstated freedoms to travel. For most of the travelling world the last two and a half years has been a period of Covid-induced inaction and frustration. But with borders starting to open and after taking all the necessary precautions Julie and I finally hit the trail again in mid 2022. With a box of masks, a … Continue reading →
One thing we’ve learned from this three week lap around the Pacific Northwest is that there are endless little hidden gems – as well as some more famous spots – to visit in Oregon, Washington and Idaho. But as we closed the loop, including a fabulous week travelling with Kathy and John, we knew that all our roads lead back to California. But the US is a big place full … Continue reading →
I think it’s half safe to say that many people went on some sort of family camping trip when they were growing up or have taken their own family on a camping trip. We went on many camping trips as a family and I still have fond memories of those great times. Julie and I also took our kids camping most weekends in the summer and they usually involved bush … Continue reading →
No other region of the United States has a stronger reputation for beautiful mountain and coastal scenery, outstanding recreation activities and a general celebration of the great outdoors than the Pacific Northwest, or the PNW. And by the PNW we mean the progressive states of Oregon and Washington which cover everything between California and Canada. Julie and I wanted to do more exploring of the nooks and crannies in this … Continue reading →
Mt. Shasta rises from the flatlands of northern California like a protective mother looking after her brood far below. It is a perfect conically-shaped volcanic mountain, at 14,100 feet (4300 metres) one of the highest in continental United States, formed over hundreds of thousands of years and still considered active. Mt. Shasta is visible for 100 miles on a clear day, one of the most awesome stand-alone mountains imaginable. Mt. … Continue reading →
Pine trees have always held a special place in my mind. They remind me of some of my best memories growing up – hiking in the forests, camping in the mountains, skiing in the Sierra Nevada mountains, holidays at Lake Tahoe. Huge majestic pine trees everywhere. And Julie immediately saw the magic in them when she started to spend time in California with their tall handsome trunks, defining barks and … Continue reading →
The Westfjords, which looks something like a hand with a hundred fingers sticking out of the north western corner of Iceland, is Norway on steroids. Whereas Norway is unquestionably the champion of huge dramatic steep mountain fjords, the Westfjords seem to focus more on quantity with a strong dose of quality thrown in. So after a long and rainy day crossing the northern Arctic coastline of Iceland with the highlight … Continue reading →
It’s a T-shirt cliché but Iceland really is a land of fire and ice – volcanos made the island and glaciers then shaped it. And the crazy thing is both forces are still very active today with volcanos still spouting off occasionally and glaciers still slipping and sliding about. Iceland feels like a geologic action movie played in extremely slow motion. Julie and I are seriously into volcanos and … Continue reading →
The sky was grey and the rain was steady as we drove across the broken lava fields on the drive from the airport to the country’s largest city. Julie and I were excited to be here after first talking about making this journey 40 years ago. A bit of patience and determination spread over four decades and here we are, pulling up to our hotel in Reykjavik, the capital of … Continue reading →
When you stand at John O’Groats, the northernmost point on mainland UK, there’s only one way to go. South. Having said fare thee well to our friends Gavin and Emma we headed south along the eastern coast of the Scottish Highlands, stopping to check out a few of the sites along the way as we followed this dramatic coastline. Scotland just never gives up. In particular, we visited the remains … Continue reading →
Fort William is a small town in central Scotland nestled into the base of Ben Nevis – the UK’s tallest mountain – on the shores of Loch Linnhe. The town is surrounded by mountains, feeling a little like Norway or Switzerland if you use your imagination, even visited by the occasional cruise ship. The town has a definite adventure feel to it. Fort William was our rendezvous point for meeting … Continue reading →
Our time in Ireland was wrapping up but we still had a couple of must-see items on our list before catching our ferry back to Wales. The first was the impressive Kilkenny Castle which for 800 years in its various iterations has been the centre of power and wealth in this part of Ireland. In addition to the magnificent rooms with their high ceilings, period furniture and fab wall hangings … Continue reading →
Up until a few years ago I would have been hard pressed to name any other counties in Ireland after Kerry, famous for some of the most spectacular scenery in the country, and Cork, alleged home to some of my ancestors. But after travelling north and west and south around Ireland, enjoying some of the most beautiful places on earth, we’ve finally arrived in Kerry…with Cork soon to follow. Kerry … Continue reading →
Any visitor to Ireland will tell you that one of the highlights of coming here is the wild and rugged coastline along the west coast with its high cliffs, long beaches, deep inlets and bays, protruding peninsulas, picturesque communities and raging surf. And the marketing people have put a name to the roads that follow this jagged coastline to help people like us see it all – The Wild Atlantic … Continue reading →
The one thing we’ve decided about Ireland is that everything is so Irish. All the documentaries, all the stories, all the stereotypes, all the generalisations and jokes, all the stuff in the news, all the myths and legends, all the books and songs and poems about Ireland are all true. Ireland has spectacular coastlines, Ireland has lush green rolling fields speckled with cattle and sheep, Ireland has a messed up … Continue reading →
Yes, we felt very welcome to Ireland as we drove off the ferry in Dublin and entered our 52nd country on Follow the Sun. We were also excited to explore the Emerald Isle because both of us have Irish blood but especially Julie as both of her parents were of sturdy Irish stock. The sun was trying, the smiles were welcoming and the Guinness was waiting for us. How did … Continue reading →
And there he was, waiting patiently, a smile across his front grill, perhaps a little dusty but otherwise looking in top form. We had a quick hug, exchanged a few quiet words of relief and I climbed up into the driver’s seat. Tramp had finally been reunited with Julie and I after almost three years separated by that dreaded Covid thing. We couldn’t stop grinning as we pulled away from … Continue reading →
There is something special about reaching your summit, regardless of the context or definition of what that summit might be. Will and I always knew that the biggest challenge of the South Coast Track was crossing the Ironbound Range with its highest point 910 metres (3,000 feet) above our coastal campground. That was our summit, in more ways than one, and would mark the both the figurative and literal highlight … Continue reading →
Tasmania can be a wild and beautiful place, especially if you have strong legs, a good backpack, comfortable shoes and a sense of adventure. Julie and I had previously done the Three Capes Track before I joined our three sons to do the famous Overland Track. But the South Coast Track was another step up and our oldest son Will agreed to join me in tackling this iconic track on … Continue reading →
Who wants to predict the weather these days? Drought when there should be rain, rain when it should be dry, even snow – yes, snow – when you least expect it. Julie and I left Sydney knowing the forecast was going to include some rain but we didn’t expect rain every day, nary a blue spot in the clouds, rain on and off, rain hard and light, rain day and … Continue reading →
Here’s something we learned the easy way – when you are on a camping holiday and the weather is mostly grey clouds with bursts of rain all day there’s no point in hanging around the beaches and staring forlornly at the sky. Instead, head inland, particularly towards the New England Tablelands which are famous for its raging rivers, deep gorges and stunning waterfalls. And when water levels are at flood … Continue reading →
This Covid thing has kept Julie and I – along with everyone else in New South Wales – locked up for 20 months or more and during that time the best we could have hoped for was to travel around this huge state. Crossing borders into other states was – and still is – strictly forbidden. Just as well then that NSW is blessed with an extraordinary range of places … Continue reading →
Willy Nelson, the legendary American country western singer, once sang, “On the road again, just can’t wait to get back on the road again…”. Julie and I knew exactly how he felt. The good people of New South Wales, having been double-vaxxed at 80% of the eligible population, were released from our nearly four month lockdown and allowed to explore our great state. We wasted no time packing up the … Continue reading →
Is there life after the pandemic? Well, we don’t know yet because this freakin’ thing just keeps giving – or to be more accurate, taking – and everyone just has to do their duty until we all get vaccinated. While Australia has been excellent at suppressing the virus and keeping infections relatively low we haven’t been nearly as good at rolling out the vaccine and rolling up our sleeve. Never … Continue reading →
The devastating bushfires in the summer of 2019/2020 caused significant and sometimes tragic losses to thousands of people in eastern Australia. They also hit our property in the Wolgan Valley, burning virtually every square metre of our land and in the process damaging or destroying almost all our fences. But its been a case of mates to the rescue as the group of guys from the Cronulla beaches that I … Continue reading →
Murramarang National Park deserves all it’s accolades – a beautiful stretch of coastline with gorgeous beaches flanked by uncut forests, all of it thankfully protected for future generations. Murramarang is also geared to handle the demands of people coming to enjoy this area with four national park campgrounds, a couple of communities carved out of the park which provide numerous caravan parks and a network of roads that connect it … Continue reading →
Here’s a couple of rash generalisations after exploring the south coast for the last couple of weeks. First and foremost, this is a beautiful place by any standards. The mountains, forests, bays and beaches, national parks and the twisted waterways are just world class. But curiously, the area is very thinly populated, ‘major’ towns like Eden and Bega only have 3,000 to 4,000 residents and most communities have much less. … Continue reading →
Kosciuszko National Park had entertained us for a few days, including the highlight of climbing to the top of Mt Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest peak, and we could have stayed longer but our weather apps told us the weather on the coast was finally going to be what one would expect in an Australian summer – hot and sunny. So in our ever-flexible travel mode we decided to head for the … Continue reading →
Okay, the south coast beach holiday didn’t start out ideally as bad weather forced us inland to drier locales. But that’s okay because there’s a few gems we wanted to explore or revisit after long absences, including Deua National Park. Deua is the sight of many family camping adventures with its wild and steep four wheel drive tracks, the beautiful Bendethera Valley and the extensive limestone caves which anyone hearty … Continue reading →
Summer in Australia means a hot melanoma sun, long sandy beaches and icy cold beer. Throw in some cricket on the radio, backyard barbies and sand in your tent and you’ve got it covered. Thirty years ago Julie and I would stow the tent on the sedan’s roof rack, buckle in the kids and head down the south coast where we could enjoy as many of these experiences as possible. … Continue reading →
